Captainphx's build

[jiott]

Paul, that is what Kitfox recommends and I believe they use it on their factory built SLSA's. I still use the old Loctite 9AR; It has worked perfectly for me on all NPT fittings, fuel, oil, and brake, in steel, aluminum and fiberglass for 7 years now without a leak. Just my experience.

[captainphx]

Thanks Jim. Yes I have that too. Glad to know that's what works.

[jrevens]

That's what I used on the tanks also, although it (the 9AR) isn't available anymore... anybody know if there is a direct equivalent available from Loctite?

[jiott]

Wow! That photo really shows how much thicker the STi wing is than the standard. No wonder it is slower and draggier.

[captainphx]

Wow! That photo really shows how much thicker the STi wing is than the standard. No wonder it is slower and draggier.

Yup..Maybe it's liftier? Gotta b a trade off in there somewhere!

Jim and Eddie...you guys always provide great info...thx

[captainphx]

Have been wanting to install my Aeroled NSP NAV lights in my STi wing tip fence and was perplexed at the best way to accomplish. Brandon Petersen returned my email and gave me some good ideas and here is how I did it. Thought I'd pass this along so others may know. Of course there are other ways, but this worked really good for me. The problem was that the inside of the fence has a couple of foam layers that are an inch thick each. I wasn't sure if it was OK to cut through it.
IMG_6833.jpg
IMG_6821.jpg
You can see here, when I hold the light behind the wingtip, where one of the 1 inch thick foam layers is.

IMG_6822.jpg
And here is the other one.

So first step was to cut an opening in the first layer so you can access the inside of the wingtip...like this.
IMG_6804.jpg
Might as well make it an aviation shaped opening while your at it. I traced a lightening hole in one of my wing ribs and transferred it here.
I initially cut the opening using a drill and then opened it up with a dremel, then used some sand paper and a file to smooth the opening.


Then I drilled a hole through the fence like so.
IMG_6810.jpgIMG_6807.jpg

Next I made a backing plate out of .060 that was 2.5" x 1 3/4". Then laid it inside the wingtip on the layer of foam next to the fence and traced around it. Removed it, and again, used a dremel to remove foam material, until I was right down to the foam board that is the actual fence. As you get close, light begins to shine through the foam board fence. The foam board is .25 inch thick.
IMG_6820.jpg

Then I taped the backing plate to the outside of the fence, along with the NSP mounting bracket and match drilled some holes. Then added some nut plates. Came out like this.

IMG_6814.jpg

Added some self etching primer

IMG_6813.jpg

Here it is installed. Final step will be to hysol the plate to the inside of the foam board fence. Mounted the light parallel to the chord line.

IMG_6832.jpgIMG_6825.jpg

Hope this helps others mount theirs!

[jiott]

I ran my wires in a light corrugated sleeve inside the rear spar. I think its important because they have to pass by all those rivets sticking thru the spar inserts and the lift strut brackets-lots of chances for vibration to cause abrasion of the wire insulation.

[efwd]

Ah Yes, forgot you have a STi

[SomeDay7]

I just opened up the holes enough to pump enough Hysol into each hole to make it firm. Then drilled the Hysol for each screw. Plenty strong and easy.

[captainphx]

I just opened up the holes enough to pump enough Hysol into each hole to make it firm. Then drilled the Hysol for each screw. Plenty strong and easy.

That is the exact thing that I thought of this AM. Thanks for your reply.