If it was me, I’d leave the panel as is, take the money I was going to spend on it, and get rid of the Subaru.
GRT EIS is probably the best bang for the engine monitoring buck and in the future you could add a horizon sport EFIS to it
If it was me, I’d leave the panel as is, take the money I was going to spend on it, and get rid of the Subaru.
GRT EIS is probably the best bang for the engine monitoring buck and in the future you could add a horizon sport EFIS to it
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Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
Is there any reason other than esthetics to go with the black rocker switches as opposed to the stick toggles that come with the FF kit? I was surprised to see these supplied considering how many people end up with the black ones.
Joe - I haven't come across the stick toggles you're referring to yet but if you're referring to the standard toggle type - I switched to black rocker due to the thought, right or wrong, of reducing head impact damage (HID) in the event of an accident. HID testing is something that has to be considered when certifying aircraft and what I learned in observing that process left a pretty strong impression.
See my build log at:http://www.mykitlog.com/lowandslow/
Tell me more! I originally was thinking the flatter black rocker just because it looks a bit cleaner and was surprised the FF kit came with the standard metal toggles considering a lot of the factory planes have the black rockers.
Joe - I started with a lead I picked up on this forum and started by ordering one each of five or six different styles and shapes from one of several potential suppliers. The short version of the story is I learned that several suppliers call the same product their part but if you peel the onion just a bit you'll find that they all are from the same Chinese manufacturer AND at a wide variety of prices. Anyhow, I ended up with these: https://www.waytekwire.com/products?pSearch=47695.
You can find them elsewhere for north of $4.00 each.
You can wire them so the light is on or not - I measured the current draw for kicks and it was pretty close to nothing. (0.24 Amps if all 12 switches are on at the same time.)
I've attached the spec sheet as well as the Knuckel's writing that convinced me that with the low power stuff we have in our panels now-a-days, these switches should work just fine.
Panel switch bought from Waytek.pdf
Switch_Ratings Aero electric.pdf
Cheers,
Darrel
See my build log at:http://www.mykitlog.com/lowandslow/
Ive been looking forward to making this post! Here is my panel! I actually used matte black Krylon for the paint at the suggestion of my EAA tech. It surprisingly turned out great and seems damn durable. Then I had the labels printed on with a UV cure ink at a local printer. Ill admit the writing isn't as sharp as I would like but you wouldn't notice until I mentioned it. Also you will noticed I mis judged the Vans glove box overlap and it cut off the Kitfox logo a bit. Even so Im happy with out it turned out for my first try HA! Everything powers up and works as advertised!
IMG_0714.jpgIMG_0715.jpgIMG_0716.jpgIMG_0717.jpg58932705252__D1626DB3-5E59-4309-A566-58FD86A608C8.jpg
Looks great! I used Rustoleum. The rattle cans nowadays can provide great results for minimal cost 👍
Jeff
KF 5
340KF
Very nice Darrel. 👍 Nicely laid out. Always liked the GRT EIS.
Question. Whose 2 1/4” radio did you install in your panel. Zoomed in and thought maybe Micro Air or Becker but not sure.
DesertFox4
Admin.
7 Super Sport912 ULS Tri-gear
Thanks DF4 - the radio is a Flightline 760A. It has been working great. (One probably shouldn't make that kind of statement on anything in a panel without the ol "knock-on-wood" motion though.)
See my build log at:http://www.mykitlog.com/lowandslow/
I really like that. Nice work.
Eddie Forward
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X