Turtle build

[colospace]

Thanks for the responses.
Ross, I suspect that since the Camlocs are wider than the Clecos, it might help a bit although I would be surprised if it were to take out all of the wave. I'll have to play with that idea some today and see what it does. The recess/step is sufficient (other than the "ridge" Jim and Tim noted) as noted when I apply light hand pressure along the edges.
Jim/Tim, the "ridge" is only on the port side. The "ridge" on the other side got trimmed off completely. I had less to trim on the port side due to making sure I kept a uniform gap at the prop spinner backing plate. The ridge will be sanded down once I get to that stage of cowl work, but is not really a factor in the waviness. I have the waviness on both sides. The holes were drilled with the cowl in place on the plane and align nicely. The upper cowl "out-of-the-box" has always splayed out relative to the lower cowl. It fits nicely with really light hand pressure, but the layup is thin enough that the "point loading" at the fasteners is creating the waviness. If the edges were thicker/stiffer or the cowling radii a bit tighter, the waves would not develop.

[jiott]

What if you glassed in a stiffening rib just above the holes/joggle.

[Dick B in KY]

How about a thin strip of aluminum riveted along the edge, to give some extra support to the flange and also stiffen up the cleco hole areas which will wear over time?

Dick B

[colospace]

Jim, I had considered bonding in a stiffing rib as an option. I think I am going to first go ahead with SuperFil on the nose and let some of the anti-wave options mellow in my mind. I don't expect to get anything done until at least Monday anyway as I have a sick toddler grandson at home with me today.

[colospace]

Well, with regard to the waviness, I did bond in an 0.157" carbon fiber tube in each side of the upper cowl just above where to edge of the lower cowl would lay. It is not apparent that it helped. Moving on.....

I'm trying to fit the radiator now and things are not quite lining up. With the forward face located per the manual, it appears that the mounting straps are coming up probably 3/4" aft of the tabs on the engine mount. Looking at Tom Waid's site, I'm wondering if the manual was written for what appears to be a thinner steel core radiator. Mine is an aluminum radiator with a core that is 3" thick. Also, the top of my core, when shimmed up 3/16" per the manual, is 6 5/8" above the bottom of the cowl. The duct is only 6 1/4" (and sags to 6" at the center).
Anyone else have this radiator and if so, how far is the AFT face of the core from your firewall? Or any other helpful insight?

[Esser]

Hey Gary, how did you make out with your rad. I am in the middle of this job right now and just popped in the house for reference as the manual and what I am seeing aren't jiving.

The 9" straps they had me cut are two short even before trimming with the 3/16" spacing on the bottom.

[Dave S]

Gary & Esser,

You might want to take a look at my entry under product reviews section regarding the Aluminum Radiator retrofit from the old one.

The dimensional short comings you observed appear to be very close to the differences between the thinner original radiator I replaced and the new aluminum one when I replaced the original one with a new aluminum unit.

Could very well be that you might have older instructions that were for the thinner, now obsolete radiator.

My experience with the aluminum radiator has been excellent - when you get to flying with it, I think you will like it.

Sincerely,

[Esser]

Hey Paul, you are one post away form 1000! Thanks, I did read your thread as well. I my issues are more up and down. After reading and looking at pictures on here, I am going to the garage and see what I can whip up.

[colospace]

Esser,
I agree that the vertical straps are a little too short leaving nothing to trim. I think mine placed the radiator an 1/8 to 3/16 inch higher than desired above the bottom of my cowl. Your results may vary. I decided that was close enough.
An additional observation relates to what the thicker radiator does to the oil cooler location and how that relates to NACA duct trimming and clearance.
I ended up removing all of the straight portion of the duct on the upper surface, did the arrow shaft stiffening tip, and still have the NACA two inches forward of the plans location in order to clear the oil cooler during cowl installation/removal. Just bonded mine in a couple of days ago and still need to do the final trimming and SuperFil on the edges.
If I were doing it over again, I would probably locate the oil cooler lower on the radiator rather than high as the plans specify. This would provide better clearance with less NACA trimming and/or allow the duct to remain further aft I believe. Also, I have had to order 45 degree fitting for the oil cooler as the lines will come up right under the engine mount fittings. A lower position of the oil cooler probably would have allowed use to the straight fittings that came with the kit.

[Esser]

I'm glad I messaged you. My instructions don't even show me where the oil cooler is supposed to mount. It just has a picture saying;

Figure G-2
Pending New Oil Cooler Completion.

I'll try to get ahold of kitfox and see if they have this step for me and I'll keep in mind your advice to keep it lower.

Thanks for the tips!