bbs428 Build

[bbs428]

My Garmin pitot tube came close to the horizontal stab when it is in the full up position, just like yours.

For the transport hole alignment issue couldn't you just add a short piece of steel to the yellow fork with a bolt and drill a new hole that lines up with the wing?

Thanks Phil, yes that would work as well. I think the longer bolt and some washers will get the job done. Any welding and I would have more work - I'm getting lazy!

My other concern is the flaperon hinges are hard up on the skin as they are. Any jarring during transport will damage them. I would like a little more clearance, so I have to extend the flaperon slot or hold the wing off even more than it is. I think I'll hold the wing off a bit more, as that will satisfy all the concerns. I'll gain clearance for the lift strut and the hinges without a flaperon slot appendectomy!
I don't know how much stress is imparted on these hinge slots while in transport until it happens, which I don't want to find out the hard way!

[bbs428]

Shifted gears to work on the windscreen.

Lot's of anxious moments trimming and drilling on very expensive acrylic. A couple of old office chairs came in handy as a windscreen support while I whittled away with my Dremel and carbide cutter. That and a 4" grinder with a cutoff wheel made the most headway. Just got to keep your wits about you as a slip up could be bad.

Made up a little drill jig for the butt-ribs out of a stir stick and a chunk of old 2"x2". Worked well. Played with the math to get all the spacing correct on all the fasteners.

Since the boot cowl on my plane is removable, I had to deviate from the plans a little. My 4 glare shield clips are mounted to the windscreen separately. I used some left-over rib tape, so it won't vibrate or make unwanted noise. I'm using Skybolt fasteners, and the receptacles are mounted to the backside of the windscreen for the boot cowl.
Will be some fun to rivet them to the acrylic! Having good access to all the electronics under the boot cowl without dealing with the windscreen might come in handy! More on that later.

Used two layers of the black padded tape and added a bevel grind to the windscreen edge to get the proper clearance for the wing. It overlaps about .25 inch.

It's good to re-read all the instructions. I seemed to always find a little nugget of info that eluded me on the 1st read!



IMG_1706.jpg IMG_1709.jpg IMG_1710.jpg IMG_1713.jpg IMG_1733.jpg

[Geek]

Shifted gears to work on the windscreen. ............I'm using Skybolt fasteners, and the receptacles are mounted to the backside of the windscreen for the boot cowl. Will be some fun to rivet them to the acrylic!

Riveting those receptacles to the windscreen - you be takin' da walk on da wild side!!! Your definition of fun and mine are really different!! But I like your drill jig - that's trick. Looks good and will be interesting to hear how your 'system' works out. I too am not riveting my boot cowl for exactly the same reason. Knowing I will have to work on it later has been quite the influencer on a lot of my build.

Gary

[alexM]

Trimming and drilling the windshield is one of those tasks which has rented some space in my head for a while. That looks great.

Have you tried riveting to some scraps to see how it works out? I would not expect it to go well, but I would love to be wrong.

I'm about to trim my boot cowl and install it. I didn't realize "permanent" was normal.

[jiott]

Just FYI, I "permanently" riveted my boot cowl like the manual said. It has been on now for 10 years with never a need to remove it. The reason for that is that I installed my instrument panel and wiring service loops so that I can rotate the panel (I did not use a hinge, it just rotates around the bottom edge) into the cockpit so that it lays flat upside down with great access to all the stuff behind the panel. I have done this about 3 times in the 10 years to install new stuff like ADS-B, new keyswitch, and new voltage regulator. Just another way to skin the cat.

[Geek]

........I'm about to trim my boot cowl and install it. I didn't realize "permanent" was normal.

Not sure about this Alex but think that 'permanent' used to be normal and then screwing it on became accepted as normal as well. I know that the factory builds now are screwed on using #6 machine screws and nuts. Mine is screwed on for the same reason Brett is doing his - maintenance later on.

G

[bbs428]

Just FYI, I "permanently" riveted my boot cowl like the manual said. It has been on now for 10 years with never a need to remove it. The reason for that is that I installed my instrument panel and wiring service loops so that I can rotate the panel (I did not use a hinge, it just rotates around the bottom edge) into the cockpit so that it lays flat upside down with great access to all the stuff behind the panel. I have done this about 3 times in the 10 years to install new stuff like ADS-B, new keyswitch, and new voltage regulator. Just another way to skin the cat.

Thanks for the insight, Jim. It's appreciated!

None of us new builders have any real world, live with it experience. I've used Skybolt fasteners on all my cowling, so at this point it's hard to get off the wagon now.
Tbh - I think I just like to do things the extra hard way, so it feels like it's better, when in reality it's like you said -
"Just another way to skin the cat."

[alexM]

Just FYI, I "permanently" riveted my boot cowl like the manual said. It has been on now for 10 years with never a need to remove it. The reason for that is that I installed my instrument panel and wiring service loops so that I can rotate the panel (I did not use a hinge, it just rotates around the bottom edge) into the cockpit so that it lays flat upside down with great access to all the stuff behind the panel. I have done this about 3 times in the 10 years to install new stuff like ADS-B, new keyswitch, and new voltage regulator. Just another way to skin the cat.

I'd sort of like to see this skinless cat actually. Not the boot cowl because I get that part, but do you have any pictures of the instrument panel rotated about the bottom edge?

[PapuaPilot]

On my Model 5 I modified the original 2-piece (top/bottom) cowling into 5 pieces. I used Dzus fasters on every piece so it can be removed in a matter of minutes. This opens everything from the doorposts forward. I can also just open the engine cowlings or cowlings plus the top portion of the boot cowl. This makes it supper easy for inspections or modifications.

The downside is that the firewall and windshield are not completely sealed.


Inspection.jpg

[jiott]

Alex, here are some photos:
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