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Thread: EFWD Build

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  1. #1
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Personally I would forget drilling the spar hole just right. Drill it quite a bit oversize to make plenty of clearance for the spar. Then just butt your clamped blocks to the end of the flaperon, carefully lining up the leading and trailing edges with the split in the blocks. Then just trace around the flaperon end with a marker and your ready to bandsaw out the profile. Use the outboard end of the flaperon and you don't even need to drill a clearance hole for the spar.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  2. #2
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Thanks Jim
    I wasnt thinking of the fact I was going to cut the hole out anyhow. Very much appreciated.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Eddie,

    I'm far enough behind you in the build that I have no clue what this step involves. But I want to thank you for posting the question and others for answering. It's added to my list of threads to re-read and will obviously be helpful when I reach this stage.
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  4. #4
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Carl, these blocks that you make clamp (lightly) around the flaperon in order to have a means to level them when you are installing the control horns at the specified angle, and also later when you are rigging the flaperons on the wings and setting the control neutral and throws.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  5. #5
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    I'm trimming down the flapperon nylon bearing to the required 13/32 length. The manual says to measure "from" the flange. Can someone advise, do I include the flange in the overall measurement. The flange is 3/32 inch thick. Or do I put my ruler on the shoulder and measure out from that surface 13/32?
    Eddie

  6. #6
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    When ever I hear from the flange I go from the face, however, doing this bearings, shorter is better than longer or else they won't butt up tight to the tube. You will see what I mean when you assemble.
    ------------------
    Josh Esser
    Flying SS7
    Rotax 914iS
    AirMaster Prop

    Edmonton, AB, CWL3

  7. #7
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    You measure from the inside edge of the flange. Then when you slip the two bearing halves into the flaperon hinge and butt them up, the hinge will not be trapped tightly between the bearings but will be able to move side-to-side about a 1/16" or so. This allows it to line up with the inboard hinge bracket (on the wing trailing edge) without binding.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

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