Esser's Build

[Esser]

Mostly got the doors fit with a slight hiccup as you've probably read in the other thread. When I lined up the doors to matchbin the instructions and then trimmed it, it seems like the hinges don't have a flat surface to bolt to. I'm slightly worried about this. Anyone else have this problem? Solutions?

Went with 10-32 rivnuts and #10 Pam head screws because the bolt supply place didn't have #8

Tomorrow I hope to ge the acrylic taped and bolted to the door. Worried about the taping and lining up the holes at the same time.

[jiott]

I didn't have the hinge problem, but if I did, I think I would bend the hinge to fit the curvature so the bottom edge doesn't dig in. Then I would use some thin rubber tape or similar (seems like something came in the kit for this) for a little cushion between hinge and acrylic and don't overtighten the bolts.

[efwd]

The rivnuts are sweet. wish I had used those.
I bet you'll never be able to bend that hinge with as little material you have to fulcrum on. If it were me I would do as Jim suggests and use some kind of shim, teflon sheet or something similar, to address the top edge of the hinge where it contacts the acrylic. I might try filing down the bottom edge to resemble the surface of the bubbled out acrylic. The result is the same as Jim's when it comes to the curve we aim to achieve but I bet I wouldn't be able to bend that thick material with what I have around the garage. I think you may even deform the counter sunk hole so that the screw wouldn't sit in the counter sink well.
As for the taping and hole line up. A bit frustrating I'll admit but what I did was...
Applied the tape to the frame then I cut the tape with an exacto knife over every nut plate. Just widdle out the foam tape which will leave the tape intact along the edges. Having left the adhesive protection on the tape on the acrylic side I then laid the bubble on the frame. I run the screws in just a few threads all the way around. Now the bubble is floating a bit off the frame (barely). Now the tricky part. Tease the adhesive backing out from between the two surfaces. The difficulty is, the backing will want to break everywhere you have punched through it. Go very slowly by each screw and when it breaks you have to work a bit at getting the edge free and long enough to pinch with your fingers to pull some more. I would say I broke it about 5 times each door. A bit of a pain. The acrylic will stick to the tape immediately adjacent to your broken adhesive backing. maybe you could make a few wedges to place around between the acrylic and the frame to keep the adhesive from coming into contact with the acrylic.
I hope that was written well enough. Maybe someone else has even an easier way.

[Esser]

Thanks for the comments. I pretty much had the same idea as you for taping the door to the frame. I'm sure I can make it work.

As for the hinge issue, I was thinking of using extra 3M tape to use between the hinge and the acrylic as a softener that will conform to the shape. Just an idea, not in stone yet.

[jiott]

I'm pretty sure you could bend that hinge plate slightly by using a vise and a hammer. If the c'sunk hole distorts a little, just dress it up with a countersink tool. I also agree a little filing on the acrylic side will help it conform without too much bending.

I pretty much used the same procedure to place the acrylic door on the tape.

[Esser]

First door is on and mounted with no gas strut yet. I didn't take a picture but I filed down the hinge. It doesn't sit perfect but much much better. I'll try to get a pic.

[rosslr]

Hi Josh - you are nearly there! Its been good seeing you make good progress of late.

So just where on that door is the crack? I was thinking that, depending on where it is, I would think about making a small access window - you could cut around the crack in a square, circle or any other shape and make a small opening window for ventilation and handing loading sheets to the ground staff!!........ I would tell everyone how I planned that from the beginning...

cheers

r

[Esser]

Good thinking Ross but it's 4" from the top, on the back of the door beside the triangle window right against where the door frame will be.

[Esser]

Two doors that stay open on their own! All I have to do is add the weather stripping. This sure was a crash course on how easy acrylic cracks. Installing the windshield was a piece of cake compared to this.

[efwd]

Your Kidding!
The windshield is easier? I hope so. that's coming up very quickly