Geek's STi Build

[Geek]

Installed the Dzus fasteners between the upper and lower cowling as well as the ones between the upper and boot cowls. Due to the fit between the lower cowling, the boot cowling and the firewall foot wells, I needed to order some longer fasteners so am awaiting parts on that. I also cut the access hole for the exhaust pipe stinger and have the desired 1/2 inch clearance around it. Finished plumbing in the "Thermobob" thermostat into my cooling with a 180 degree thermostat installed. Should help get my engine temps up when warming up and keeping them stable when flying in colder weather.

[P Johnson]

Put in the spacers I needed between the boot cowl and the foot wells of the firewall. Should allow the Dzus fasteners to pull the cowl up nice and tight. And just for you Alex, I painted them (after giving them a solid coat of lacquer!!

Gary

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Gary,

I have fitted the end caps on the inside (not riveted yet) as apposed to yours on the firewall side (builders choice) I also have a gap between the boot cowl and the end plates, I am considering fitting some kind of spacer in the same location as yours but I have also considered a piece of 1/8" x 1" riveted to the rear outward edge of the end cap as mine bow and this would hold the edge straight but I don't want the extra weight or have to use longer fasteners, so maybe making new end caps and move them out over so as to take up the gap maybe the best choice as I found the instructions in this area a little vague, what do you think? Are you making your boot cowl removable and if so how do you plan on sealing the fire wall?

Paul.

[Geek]

Gary,

I have fitted the end caps on the inside (not riveted yet) as apposed to yours on the firewall side (builders choice) I also have a gap between the boot cowl and the end plates, I am considering fitting some kind of spacer in the same location as yours but I have also considered a piece of 1/8" x 1" riveted to the rear outward edge of the end cap as mine bow and this would hold the edge straight but I don't want the extra weight or have to use longer fasteners, so maybe making new end caps and move them out over so as to take up the gap maybe the best choice as I found the instructions in this area a little vague, what do you think? Are you making your boot cowl removable and if so how do you plan on sealing the fire wall?

Paul.

Think you have hit pretty much the crux of the issues with having a removable boot cowl; spacers/fasteners and firewall sealing. The spacers I put in did stiffen the sides of the boot cowl and yeah, I did have to order longer parts for the fasteners from Skybolt. But think they were like $20US and had them in three days (Might take a touch longer to England but they were still pretty fast). I will admit that I am not a major fanatic about that kind of weight add but in the same breath have laughingly thought maybe I might name my plane "Miss Piggy" cause I am not that weight watcher guy. (I can lose 5lbs of my own weight pretty easy so a few ounces just doesn't ring my bell). Moving the end caps is certainly one option you can do for certain but think the cost of the stainless sheet would be more than the fasteners.

As for sealing the firewall - I will admit I haven't made that decision to tell the truth. I have done some research just to have options to mull over but since I am not to the point of actually sealing the firewall up, I'm still mulling. None of the options I have seen can I vouch for and was pretty much planning on doing some tests. They start with sealing it 'normally' and then cutting through the sealant between the firewall and cowl with a guitar string if the boot needs to come off (suggest the G string since it's the smallest). There was one suggesting the use of clear packing tape on the boot cowl and then sealing it normally so if you remove the cowl, the tape will separate from the cowl and the sealant stays in place on the firewall (maybe - wasn't sure about this to tell the truth). Along those lines there were a couple I saw that thought some sort of releasing agent (like a molding release) would be the ticket (my question here would be how the release reacts with the sealant). I've got some fiberglass and some metal so my plan (if you want to call it that) is to try a few of these and see which one I like best or even works. Sorry I can't give you a more conclusive answer on this one cause I just don't have it yet. Let us all know what you do cause it will help make decisions.

Cheers
Gary

[alexM]

Pretty sure an E string is smaller than a G.

[Eric Page]

Gary, we've all enjoyed your well-documented build but please don't post photos of your G string.

[Geek]

Pretty sure an E string is smaller than a G.

Not on a 12 string Alex. The octave G is the small one. (But then of course I didn't spec a 12 string did I?)

Gary, we've all enjoyed your well-documented build but please don't post photos of your G string.

What? You're a SNAG? (Sensitive New Age Guy) Can't do that Eric. You'll just have to live with the image.

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[alexM]

That explains it. I've only spent a few minutes playing a 12 string and never stopped to think of the theory behind the "other" set of strings involved.

Carry on!

[Geek]

Today was brake bleeding day for me. My past motorhead life left me with a pressure bleeder for brakes and today was just another day of being happy I had it. Makes life really easy when bleeding. While I did cover my brake lines with shielding, I left small sections at the fittings uncovered so I had an easy look at the hose and fitting. If there was a leak, I could see it easily rather than have it run down the webbing and exit somewhere lower. Also one of the biggest reasons my build is going to have a removable boot cowl is not only to let me access the back of the panel for troubleshooting but also to provide an easy access to the brake manifold on the inside of the firewall. Being able to see the lines going in made it really easy to assess if I still had air in the lines when bleeding. The one pic is of the air coming out the right brake line when I started. It also lets me inspect the brake cylinders down in the footwells easily. Not only to inspect for leaks but also access to repair a leak should I have one.

I know I have read that some think that some of Kitfox's instructions are lacking in some areas and will admit to having some thoughts along those lines. But one thing I have learned after getting this far in the buld is that where some items may be construed as vague might really be a matter of that part doesn't require exacting instructions and however you do it will be fine. In this case, I started doing my brake bleed yesterday and the #$%*$###!! tube kept popping off the nipple on the caliper. The pressure bleeder is the bomb but a downside is that when the tube pops off, the fluid comes out under pressure and fast. So I went back and re-read the instructions and in this case, Brandon and crew said use 1/8" tubing to connect to the nipple. I had some 3/16" laying around and figured "Good enough". It wasn't. The instructions specifically told me 1/8" and this morning my trip to the local hardware store got me the right stuff. Came home, tied it into the pressure bleeder and was literally done bleeding in an hour and half. Nice solid pedals, no air in the sight areas of the lines anywhere. No tube popping off the bleeder.

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[alexM]

I have one of those Motiv bleeders. They're amazing

[bbs428]

Nice system Gary. The proper tool makes short work of any task!

I have had a mityvac vacuum pump kit for a long time. It works ok but it's slow, so I used a big syringe as well to force the air out.

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