Yesterday I got the new door hinges and reinforcing plates sanded to size, deburred and cleaned up on the Scotch-Brite wheel. I was about to put them through Alodine treatment when it occurred to me that I should wait until the mounting holes and countersinks are done. Also just realized that I still need to round the corners on the reinforcing plates.
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If anyone knows a good way to cut the steel hinge pin, and how to stake the pins once they're installed in the hinges, I'd be pleased to hear it.
Next up was fabricating and installing wood mounting rails for the remote magnetometer. I went to my collection of leftover building materials and found a suitable piece of maple baseboard. I cut it to length on the miter saw (to fit between ribs 3 and 4 in the right wing), then ripped it on the table saw to make two 1/2" wide strips. Those were marked and pilot drilled on the bench, then the magnetometer was attached. Finally, the whole assembly was glued onto the top edge of the bottom cap strips with Hysol.
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Finally, I did a more or less pointless mock-up of the instrument panel (really just an excuse to get some Dynon bits out of their boxes and play with the knobs and buttons!). That 10" screen is a tight fit in a Kitfox.
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This is my current thinking WRT panel layout. Dynon goodies front-and-center, dimmer knob, lane lights and switches to left and below the EFIS, ELT control above the Dynon modules, Van's glove box on the right, and a dual USB charger at bottom right with circuit breakers to the left of that. I'm also considering a mount arm for an iPad (recommendations welcome).
I haven't decided on the exact switches I want to use, so consider the toggles as placeholders. I'm also not in love with circuit breakers, so that may change to a fuse box behind the panel.
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The panel layout was done using the free designer at https://hangarzulu.com/.