Project 5 build thread

[alexM]

I got a little bit done this weekend.
I pulled the Grove gear off my plane and started the installation of the Roberts Bush Gear. Since I was pulling the wheels off I decided to split the rims and swap out the 6-6.00s that have been on there the whole time and put on the 26" Airstreaks. Something tells me that I'll probably wish I waited until the whole thing is assembled at the airport but really just want to see what it looks like (yes I'm 15 going on 58). The adult in me says I did it because I wanted to make sure it fit before I started covering the fuselage.
PXL_20220129_230939490.jpg
I took the opportunity to weigh everything which is always an eye opener. The scale I use for measuring most parts has an upper limit of 33 pounds, which is what I have read the Grove gear weighs (can't find the source, doesn't matter). The main gear arch maxed out my scale even with the radius blocks, axles and hardware removed. So I took it home and weighed it.
Main arch=34.5 lbs
Radius blocks, axles and hardware = 6.25
Total=40.75 lbs*

(I have since found the "landing gear weight" thread and at least one post confirms the Grove is #40 lbs, so I'm not uncovering anything new).

So at 27.7 lbs "apples to apples" the Roberts gear just took 13 lbs off my plane.

I blew my opportunity to weigh the Cleveland 40-281 wheel assembly by itself but I did weigh the the 26 and 6 tires with and without the wheels and they're about 7 lbs each including the disc and hardware. If I do a Beringer upgrade I'll make sure to weigh everything again.
PXL_20220131_004616011.jpg
A ready to mount wheel with 26" Airstreak was 29 lbs. Surprisingly the 6x6.00 was 15.75 lbs, which was higher than I expected.

Covering
I brought home my horizontal stabilizer and elevator and so far I have prepped the elevator for the Oratex Adhesive. I took it outside and used my rubber taco with 220 paper on it to scuff up the ribs, tips and powder coated steel surfaces where ever the adhesive will be painted on. It started raining before I could start the horizontal stabilizer so I'll have to savor that another day. The elevator has all been wiped clean and ready for surgery.

Using the updated BAF manual I took the suggestion to buy a bunch of cheap foam brushes for applying the adhesive. A way better option than the $14 brushes in the catalog.

I've now abused my test frame with 10 cycles of the Harlan Payne Hammer test. I'm hitting it pretty hard with a good size ball peen hammer. Some hits leave a small dent but I can remove it by waving it in front of my infrared heater for a few seconds - or just leaving it alone for a while. Even in my cold garage the dent heals on its own. Pretty amazing stuff.

I measured up my wing fabric and I can easily trim off the 76" direction and have plenty for both the wings and the horizontal surfaces (and rudder I'm sure). I'll be doing that tomorrow and staring in with the adhesive application.

[Kitfox Pilot]

I've now abused my test frame with 10 cycles of the Harlan Payne Hammer test. QUOTE

Hahaha


Look forward to you starting your covering.

[alexM]

I've now abused my test frame with 10 cycles of the Harlan Payne Hammer test.

Hahaha
Look forward to you starting your covering.

18 now.

I demonstrated the test frame to my youngest son today by hitting it twice and handing it to him. After his first swing he flipped my big ball peen hammer around and hit it with the ball side. I have to admit I cringed. It made a deep, dirty round dent in the surface - and the dent was gone by the time he handed it back to me. It's pretty tough stuff.

I was thinking the other day: I hope no one sees my plane at a fly in some day, elbows their friend and says "hold my beer".

The covering process has commenced
I had previously cut four 166" pieces of fabric (Right/Left, Upper/Lower) for the wing panels, but I did not cut in the chord direction. I needed the scraps from the 76" roll to cover my horizontal tail surfaces, so I went through the clown show that accompanies working in a one car garage to cut two of the pieces.

Next I repurposed the dining room table for preparing the four pieces needed to cover the elevator, traced them onto the adhesive side of the fabric pieces and applied two layers of the Oratex Hot Melt Adhesive to both the fabric pieces and the elevator structure. I'm no dummy, I covered the surface of the table with a thin tarp which is paper on one side and poly on the other (two layers thick, thank you).

None of that was particularly confusing. This morning I got the fabric on the lower side of the right elevator. Nothing like diving right into something with some radius corners and a couple of awkward spots where the small diameter tube hits the fat crosswise piece at the inboard end. In the future I might ease that transition with some balsa/foam and Hysol. But I didn't know that yet, so that was enjoyable.

The wisdom I had been prepared to follow was to do the wings first, and use the scraps to cover the tail. They're big but basically a big Hershey Bar so theoretically a good place to get handy with the process. But restricted to indoor work because of the low OAT for the near future, I didn't have much choice if I wanted to move forward. Oh and the BAF manual suggests starting out with the smallest pieces first.

So I fumbled around and got the lower right side covered. I had two wrinkles which looked pretty bad and a handful of very small wrinkles which bothered me. The guy on the 80 minute rudder video makes it look pretty easy (Note to self: Cub tail surfaces are that shape for a reason). I got the big wrinkles to go away and I got the small ones to almost go away. I won't have to worry about CG issues hauling around some big 'ole Lindy Award, but they really aren't bad.

I regrouped and watched some youtube videos on Oratex, including some made by Lars from BAF. Lars stresses that you should not attempt to smash out a wrinkle. I can only say that by the time you are in that position it is probably too late, but he's right.

My son was in the area looking for something to do. He has covered several models, starting when he was about 7 so the basics of fabric covering is not lost on him. Together we covered the bottom of the left side. Originally I was going to have him help me cover the rest of the right side, but then I realized I would have to paint adhesive on the new covering where the two pieces overlap. You have to let the adhesive dry, so that was out.

The job went much easier with two people. It seemed to go quicker even though we took several breaks. Score: No big wrinkles and slightly fewer small ones - which likewise only went away about 95%.
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I had to move to the kitchen island because there's an outlet under the counter.

The pic above shows the elevator bottom side up. I have just masked the perimeter so I can apply that overlap adhesive. Looking at the picture now I'm already having second thoughts about the tip. I should have cut that much closer to the edge since I expect to come back through with an edge tape of some kind.

After that dries my plan is to do the second offset layer of tape shown in the 80 minute rudder video. If any of you Oratex survivors has any other opinions on that I would like to hear them.

[Kitfox Pilot]

The elevator is the hardest part so it should all get easier for you.
One thing I will add, on my silver there is a pattern if you look at the materal so I had to be careful to keep the pattern lines going the same way as I covered say the elevator and the horizonal stabilizer or you could see the difference between them.
I have no idea if your color will do the same but take a piece and turn it 90 degrees to the roll and lay it on there and you will see what I'm talking about if it does.
Harlan

[Eric Page]

Woo hoo! Looking good, Alex. Huge step!

[alexM]

Thank you Harlan, that would be a real forehead slapper to see the pattern in the fabric after you've covered everything. After reading that I took a piece of scrap and viewed it in good light in both orientations and I can't see a difference. Based on the way my pieces are cut they will automatically be oriented the same.

Even though my fabric is of "factory second" quality I had to look very closely to see what the flaws might be. I know the one's I'm adding will be more noticeable.
PXL_20220202_223102485.jpg
I faked my own death today so I could finish covering the elevator. Funny, I was just trying to figure out why I can barely grip anything and then remembered all that tugging and pulling. My skills are increasing and the end result is good enough. The spandex effect is real. Even though I did a better job of stretching the fabric in those corners, the flaws underneath telegraph through just as I had been warned.


PXL_20220203_010701752.jpg
Kitchen restored to its normal configuration.
The surfaces have been shrunk but not to their final condition. I need to work out my finish tape strategy and add the "seaplane grommet" holes near the trailing edge. Until then I have a crude, double chamber aneroid barometer.

[Shadowrider]

Looking good! Make sure if you have any glue exposed to thoroughly remove it. It will yellow with time and become an eye sore on white.

[alexM]

Thank you. I do have a few small areas. How do I remove it?

[bumsteer]

Alex

Try the vinegar/water solution recommended in BAF Hints book(1 part vinegar to 3 water if I recall correctly). If it hasn't been heated it will come off easily. If heated and cured it still may work but you'll have to leave a damp soaked cloth on it for a while. I used it to remove cured glue from my elevator tubes but I had to leave the cloth on for about a hour keeping it damp.and scraping it off. Obviously don't try the scraping on the fabric. I used washcloths which is coarser than microfiber for scrubbing. Don't scrub vigorously as it will start to remove the color (ask me how I know). Oratex does have an uncured glue remover but several years ago HAZMAT fee was astronomical.

Rick

[alexM]

Well that ship sailed on the elevator but it might help me salvage my clothes. I got some adhesive on my favorite pants in a place that looks very awkward. I tried the vinegar and water as soon as I discovered it but I didn't know how long I would have to let it soak.

The stuff on the elevator is just a couple of very thin lines, and thankfully on the bottom side. I was sure I was going to run finishing tape over it anyway which would cover it, but now I'm reading conflicting information. I guess not everyone uses finishing tape on the trailing edge, but the 80 minute rudder video shows it and so do a number of Lars' videos. Yet I think the BAF manual supplement is where I read that it's not needed.