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Thread: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

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  1. #1
    RF47's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    Thanks John. This is a bit of a silly question, but do you think there is any chance the low melting-point solder in these type of connectors (~115C) would get anywhere near hot enough to re-melt while running?

  2. #2
    Senior Member 109JB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by RF47 View Post
    Thanks John. This is a bit of a silly question, but do you think there is any chance the low melting-point solder in these type of connectors (~115C) would get anywhere near hot enough to re-melt while running?
    According to the specs, it takes 280 deg F to melt the solder. I would not be worried.
    John Brannen
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    I bought one of those modules from Allistare Wilson. I tried it on the 912 UL, and it worked fine. Ended up not needing it and so it's in a drawer waiting till I install the ULS and I will use it on that engine cause it has a soft start module built into it. I would not hesitated to get another one if needed. I also moved my modules to the firewall side of the motor mount to avoid broken wires in the future. If I was you, I would maybe fix both modules you have, install one of the aftermarket ones, and have a spare Rotax one if you ever need it. JImChuk

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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by avidflyer View Post
    I bought one of those modules from Allistare Wilson. I tried it on the 912 UL, and it worked fine. Ended up not needing it and so it's in a drawer waiting till I install the ULS and I will use it on that engine cause it has a soft start module built into it. I would not hesitated to get another one if needed. I also moved my modules to the firewall side of the motor mount to avoid broken wires in the future. If I was you, I would maybe fix both modules you have, install one of the aftermarket ones, and have a spare Rotax one if you ever need it. JImChuk

    As Jim mention, probably a good idea to have a spare. I had a persistent issue with my modules several years ago. Substandard wire in them (in my opinion). Several areas of the wires broken inside of the insulation. I had to cut/spice/repair several sections of my modules and wires from the stator.

    Granted I come from experience in building military grade electronical test equipment for fighter aircraft, so was used to using very high quality wires. The wire that Rotax (ducati) uses is pure junk!

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    Yes, crappy wire! I had to buy a replacement module for my 912ul and the cost was eye watering. I could buy a new magneto for that price! You would expect better quality for the money.

    Quote Originally Posted by WWhunter View Post
    As Jim mention, probably a good idea to have a spare. I had a persistent issue with my modules several years ago. Substandard wire in them (in my opinion). Several areas of the wires broken inside of the insulation. I had to cut/spice/repair several sections of my modules and wires from the stator.

    Granted I come from experience in building military grade electronical test equipment for fighter aircraft, so was used to using very high quality wires. The wire that Rotax (ducati) uses is pure junk!
    Building a KF IV Classic

  6. #6
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by RF47 View Post
    Thanks John. This is a bit of a silly question, but do you think there is any chance the low melting-point solder in these type of connectors (~115C) would get anywhere near hot enough to re-melt while running?
    Not at all silly… as John B. said, it shouldn’t be a problem. However, “solder sleeves” have gotten mixed reviews from people. Bob Nuckolls was (is?) a fan, but then noted some problems with them…. incomplete or poor flow of the solder into the wire for one thing, I believe. I think variable quality may be an issue, like with so many things made in China especially. That’s just my personal opinion and experience.
    John Evens
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Rodney's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    Just put on a new set of modules from Alistair Wilson. They are really well made and he was a pleasure to deal with.

    My engine just would not run on the "A" side of the ignition. I traced everything I could; You have to understand I'm very limited
    when it comes to electronics.

    What I eventually found really surprised me. I had four bad spark plugs - all on the A side. I've never had that happen before.
    I replaced all the NGK spark plugs with Champions and my engine is running fine. The reason I went with Champions is that I live in
    a small community and that was all I could get. Even had to go to two parts stores to get a collection of 8 plugs.

    Still - I like the modules I got from Alistair - very easy to install and I moved them away from being on top of the engine.

    Regards
    Rodney

  8. #8
    Senior Member Maverick's Avatar
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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    What is the concept of "Soft Start"? I've seen it referenced but, I don't really know what it is. Would someone care to edify me?
    Maverick
    EAA, AOPA
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    The soft start, at least on these aftermarket modules uses 12 volt power from the wire going to the starter solenoid switch for low rpm spark. When the key it turned to start position, starter engages, and ignition module is energized. Otherwise the modules don't generate spark until about 300 rpm. When key it turned off start position, solenoid and module don't receive 12 volt power. JImChuk

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Ignition Module Wires, Repair Advice

    AND it is "soft start" because it retards the spark timing (hopefully to just after top dead center) for a couple of seconds to help prevent kickback. That's a problem on 912uls and will damage the starting clutch.
    Building a KF IV Classic

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