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Thread: Captainphx's build

  1. #161
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    That’s how I did it also, for the same reason.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  2. #162
    Senior Member PapuaPilot's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Quote Originally Posted by jiott View Post
    I ran my wires in a light corrugated sleeve inside the rear spar...
    That's what i did too.
    Phil Nelson
    A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
    KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
    Flying since 2016

  3. #163
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Jun 2018
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    Cave Creek, AZ
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadowrider View Post
    I put them in a sleeve to protect them but I don’t think it’s nesscary.
    The fuel fittings didn’t start leaking until 1 year into flying and at high altitude where its cold. If I recall you did a banjo fitting which should save you down the road.
    Thanks Dustin, yes I have the banjo fittings
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  4. #164
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    I am doing my final prep work for the installation of Oratex. What kind of primer did you use on your metal parts, ie trailing edge, door sills, etc? I was thinking of using PTI's epoxy primer, which is a BMS10-11 primer. According to the Better Aircraft Fabric manual, I should acid etch and alodine first. I talked to Lars at BAF yesterday on the phone and he explained the acid etch-alodine procedure to me. He was saying the alodine needs to be flushed thoroughly with hose water. Not really an option for me since my wiring is already installed. He also said I should be wearing a respirator and full body suit. What primer are you guys using?
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  5. #165
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2020
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    Steilacoom, WA
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Etch and Alodine is ideally done on parts which have been trimmed, fit, drilled and deburred - prior to installation. I just did it to my trailing edges and then installed them last week. No need for respirator and full body suit. I use latex gloves and otherwise avoid bathing in the stuff.

    Alodine is not primer. It is great at corrosion prevention and is also a great surface prep for primer/paint. I've done it to pretty much every aluminum part on my plane.

    That BMS10-11 is water reducible which is great. Also zero induction time. It is likely less "hot" than the Stits EP-420 stuff most of us are using.

    Most often I reach for a can of SprayMax 3680033 2K epoxy. It's two part rattle can stuff. You pop a seal on the bottom and shake it well, then you have 3-4 days to use it up. It sprays on really well.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  6. #166
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Been a while since I posted…Oratex is now installed except for the fuselage. Just checking as much of the rigging as I can first. Most rigging is set. I am having a little trouble with the aileron rigging though. Manual says that left aileron bellcrank should be set to 26 degrees aft of vertical, and the right bellcrank 32 degrees forward of vertical. I have the left set exactly at 26 degrees aft of vert. When I check the right it is 28 degrees forward of vertical. Since the 2 bellcranks are welded to the same tube, how can I change anything on the right bellcrank? What am I missing here?
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  7. #167
    Senior Member
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    Nov 2019
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    Leavenworth WA
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Paul - sorry I can't help with the answer to your question cause I'm not there yet. But I do have a question on your build. I installed the rudder pedals and did the check to see if the inside brake cylinders hit the torque tube when the pedals are forward. They did. Says to grind them off so they don't but doesn't say how much. I was looking at your build and it appears you had to grind yours off as well (You'll recognize the pic). How did you determine how much to grind off and not impact the integrity of your cylinder?

    Appreciate any insight before I just go in there and do the deed.

    Gary

    Brake Cylinder.jpg
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi in Building Stage

  8. #168
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Gary, I remember grinding those but I can’t remember how I achieved the correct clearance now. Here’s a couple of photos. Hope it helps.

    F0262642-E8F8-4C9E-B281-8A713ECC2F8B.jpg612CDD48-A0A3-4399-82FE-26E4B587F1B4.jpg
    Last edited by captainphx; 12-28-2021 at 03:51 PM.
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  9. #169
    Senior Member
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    Nov 2019
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    Leavenworth WA
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Thanks Paul. Appreciate the extra pics. Not one of those things you just want to rush in to.

    G
    Gary (Geek) Phenning
    Leavenworth (Not the Prison), WA
    Kitfox STi in Building Stage

  10. #170
    Senior Member
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    Jan 2012
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    NW
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    219

    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Geek, I am not worried about that much authority on the rudder. If I have to go there it wouldn't be good anyway.
    Starfox

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