The shear loads on those clevis pins are nearly zero, and of course there is no tension load. If you want to worry about highly loaded critical bolts, worry about the 3 lift strut bolts, one bottom and two top. That where your life hangs.
The shear loads on those clevis pins are nearly zero, and of course there is no tension load. If you want to worry about highly loaded critical bolts, worry about the 3 lift strut bolts, one bottom and two top. That where your life hangs.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
You should not forget to take into consideration that your holes on the plates themselves may not have the holes drilled straight through. In the final photo, what I think I see, is the tolerance of the hole has the walls of the holes lining up with the pin itself and all those holes were all drilled differently. So, imagine your spar holes were drilled way off center. Then you may see that all the holes would be canted off one another and not allow the pin through unless you tilt the plate as you seem to be needing to do to get the pin in. Hope that makes sense.
If I recall, back when I did mine, I swapped all those plates around numerous times and eventually found pairs that seemed to fit closely. I think then I did as John and squashed them a bit more when needed. I only had like two I did that to.
Eddie Forward
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X
Thanks everyone! Great advise. Problem solved. I did use my press to reduce the radius and then reshaping a bit with a vice and it lays down pretty flat now.
Jim-thanks for pointing that out
Eddie-Yeah, that is what I was thinking when talking about using a rat tail file...to change the angle of the hole wall slightly, but chose not to try that.
John and Dave..thanks, I used a combo of your suggestions.
IMG_5451.jpg
Paul
Building STi
Rotax 915is
MT Prop
Oratex
N951CT
Just looking ahead a bit and I have a couple of questions...if you did cover the inner surface of the butt rib, what did you guys cover it with? Wood, plastic, fabric?
If you painted your butt rib stack, what did you paint it with?
Paul
Building STi
Rotax 915is
MT Prop
Oratex
N951CT
I covered the inside surface with fabric and cut out the center hole for fuel gauge visibility. Butt rib was painted with the aircraft finish paint/color.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
I did the same as Jim. I actually covered the outside and painted it all white and cut out the center hole.
Right Door Hinge Installation.jpg
Phil Nelson
A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
Flying since 2016
Thanks guys!
I was also asking earlier how people finished the butt rib stack, but I meant the #1 rib stack?
Paul
Building STi
Rotax 915is
MT Prop
Oratex
N951CT
I bonded some Aluminum into the rib openings, and painted everything black.
--Brian
Flying - S7SS
I would venture to guess most people leave the ends of the wings without cover. When your Butt rib is closed you don't see the root of the wing. If it (#1 rib) is covered, inspection of the inside of the wings is then limited.
Eddie Forward
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X
I definitely agree with Eddie, don't cover the inboard (or outboard) end of the wing. You want to be able to look in there for inspections.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS