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Thread: Captainphx's build

  1. #91
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Thanks Guys. I am just trying to get a handle on just what parts of what ribs are exposed, or can be seen from inside the cockpit, and in need of painting. I don't want to see any clear varnished rib from inside the cockpit. The entire number one rib stack, I am thinking of painting black. As well as the butt rib. The only area where I am a bit unsure is the cap strip of the transition rib ( the one next to the butt rib). In looking forward in the manual, I see that the cap strip of the butt rib is covered by the windshield skylight. I am bit unsure of what covers the cap strip of the transition rib. I am thinking that the fabric covering the wing comes over the main rib #1, then down the filler rib and then wraps over the cap strip of the transition rib. Thus receiving the same paint as the wing. Is this correct? If anybody has pics of the wing to skylight transition area, that would be great. Until yesterday, I did not realize that the skylight was not flush with the top of the wing.
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  2. #92
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Your going to want to paint your butt rib if you cover it or not. I just filled in the two holes in the web of the butt rib with 1/8 ply that I cut to fit. No fabric on my butt ribs. Having used Oratex fabric, I just wrapped the fabric around the #1 rib cap strip and terminated it at the web. I have not painted the #1 rib. It is still lacquer finish. Unless you fold the wing back you won't know it isn't painted. You certainly would be fine wrapping your fabric down onto the web of the #1 rib leaving your holes open, then painting it along with the wing
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  3. #93
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Paul, there is no "transition" rib, at least on the SS7. The #1 wing rib sits right next to the Butt rib.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  4. #94
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Quote Originally Posted by jiott View Post
    Paul, there is no "transition" rib, at least on the SS7. The #1 wing rib sits right next to the Butt rib.
    The STi has a transition rib. Didn't know SS7 did not. You can see what they look like when together. Butt rib on the right.IMG_5459.jpgIMG_5458.jpgIMG_5460.jpg
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  5. #95
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_54a.jpg

    SS7 super sport standard wing.
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  6. #96
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Quote Originally Posted by efwd View Post
    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_54a.jpg

    SS7 super sport standard wing.
    Thanks Eddie, I was wondering how the fuel sight gage would look.
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  7. #97
    captainphx's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    Just thinking ahead bit. I don't want to run out of Hysol. The kit comes with the two cans, 2.5 pounds each. How much more hysol do you think is needed. I was looking online and I found one place in NY that sells it in the same quantity, but they want $143 plus $65 for shipping. Where do you guys get this. There are many other places that sell it but in smaller quantities, including Aircraft Spruce.
    Paul

    Building STi
    Rotax 915is
    MT Prop
    Oratex
    N951CT

  8. #98
    Senior Member Delta Whisky's Avatar
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    Amissville, VA
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    As to how much is needed: The only hysol work I have yet to do is mounting the fairings on the lift stuts and I have about 1/3 of the original hysol left. As to buying in quantity: the most important detail to share is that it doesn't seem to age well. At about one year old the white part (is that part A?) developed small "chunks". Brandon informed me that it can be made well by very brief heatings in a micro wave and that worked well. (You have to be careful to not get it too hot.) Today (now 2 years old) I needed to use/mix some and was surprised that the "chunks" were much worse and it took a lot of careful heating and mixing to get it back to its original consistency. I don't know how its strength has been affected, if at all, but I'm not using it in a critical application. It appears to be setting up normally. All this is to say that I won't be, and don't recommend, buying any in advance.

  9. #99
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    I needed a small amount after my large cans ran out, so I bought the small 500ml tubes.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  10. #100
    Administrator DesertFox4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Captainphx's build

    (Page 28 of Kitfox Aircraft’s parts catalog.)

    50 ml. tubes of Hysol for $20.54. Part # 32733.000
    Hand plunger for 50 ml. tubes $2.91. Part # 10540.222
    EA 9460 2-1qt cans $ 139.00 Part # 01139.000


    DesertFox4
    Admin.
    7 Super Sport
    912 ULS Tri-gear


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