Might not be a bad idea to get it media blasted and repainted/powdercoated. The covering will be glued to the paint and you certainly don't want that coming loose!
Might not be a bad idea to get it media blasted and repainted/powdercoated. The covering will be glued to the paint and you certainly don't want that coming loose!
Jeff
KF 5
340KF
I second jmodguy's reply. Looks like to original owner tried to cover up chipped areas of powder-coating.
Leave it alone until your absolutely sure you don't have to weld a tab or a bracket on or remove one, then get it blasted and a fresh powder-coat done.
James T
Valrico, FL
I know you’re not going to to like this answer but the fact that you are asking the question, I think you already know.
Get it sand blasted and coated. A shop will do it for you for a reasonable price. You’re still ahead on price of the kit over all and it’s cheap peace of mind.
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Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
You're right. I think that's the only reasonable solution here.
Now what about the tail ribs that have been attached on top of this paint job? Just rip them off and start over with new pieces?
The elevator and rudder were done prior to the additional powder coat, so those are fine.
Ugh, it just makes me feel defeated and I've not even really started.
As far as blasting, should I be looking for a shop that can do soda blasting or dry ice?
You might be able to "melt" the hysol. Most epoxy type adhesives can be softened with heat. The ply ribs can be cleaned up and re-used.
Or.... since your coating isnt sticking so well they may just pop off.
As for re-finishing your fuse etc, think positive - you can pick the color you want! Like Esser said, you are still ahead of the cost of buying new...
Jeff
KF 5
340KF
If in doubt have it garnet blasted by a reputable firm. If it's powder coat, soda or dry ice are a waste of time(and a whole lot of money). These two will also only polish any rust.In an ideal world an electrostatic paint job is the best but if powdercoating make sure there is a coat if zinc applied first to stop undercreep if the coating goes damaged.20+years in the industry speaking here.
Don’t feel defeated. Honestly, decided to do it is the worst part. You will be done and it will never bother you in the back of your head. As for the tail feathers, I would necessarily do them unless you see issues with the paint in those areas. In the future you can redo a tail feather easily if you notice issues. But that’s just my comfort level
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Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
@Dusty you obviously have experience, but i would have thought using that medium would have the potential to take off to much metal?
@Esser yeah I was looking at it today. The paint around that area looks pretty good and a test area I wasn't able to chip any off.
I'm going to have a friend who is a plane builder come by this week as well to give his 2 cents.
Thanks everyone.
Others have given good advice, but another opinion FWIW: Sand blasting is good, in fact it's beneficial. Don't leave any of these areas that look dodgy, they may cover nasties such as metal cancer. Take the time now and do it properly otherwise it will always be in the back of your mind. As for Hysol, I needed to move couple of ribs that weren't located well so used a heat gun, around 250C and softened it enough to move things around.
I know it sounds a bit daunting but you'll have (a) peace of mind and (b) good working knowledge of your aircraft structure. Based on what you've done, you may be able to make a case to be considered as part builder. Good luck with your decision.
David
SS7 Builder
Well, no one in my local area I've contacted will even consider touching it. Great.