Hoenshell's Build

[HighWing]

Historically it has been found that Polytone adheres very poorly to hard surfaces like fiberglass. Typically if used there an epoxy primer was sprayed first and after solvent evaporation, but before curing, the Polytone was sprayed on. A friend after doing that on his build many years ago was recently attempting to remove the Polytone top coat with solvents and no go. An automotive urethane works well on the fiberglass parts.

[efwd]

I used Poly Tone on everything except small parts like the hub caps. I found a matching rattle can and it has turned out well. I sprayed color onto my Oratex and it has turned out beautiful with Poly Tone. As for my fiberglass and flapperons I don't know. I primered, allowed it to cure, sprayed another coat of primer let it get tacky and then put down the color. I have serious doubts about this factory recommended technique to get Poly Tone to stick. I can tell you I have put small scratches in my engine cowl at the spinner. It takes very little to scratch. I am betting after 100 hrs I will be in the paint shop at my local airport for a repaint with something more durable. Or maybe it will be look cool with the color pealing back. After all, many folks have had paint jobs with what appears to be fabric pealing back in the wind.
Eddie

[airlina]

Eddie, when i was painting my Series 5 way back when, I tested the recommended polytone procedure on hard surfaces and found the results were poor, so I went to a local auto paint supplier and had them match my colors with a product called Dupont Centari (enamel). Had great results with that product over all metal , fiberglass etc. Been 15 years and it has held up well. Bruce N199CL

[efwd]

Thanks, Ill put that in my note book.

[Hoenshell]

I will have to remove this engine mount and replace it with one that is compatible with my smooth cowling, so my wife and I built this engine stand today on a moveable cabinet.

[Wheels]

I did the same thing and it worked well. Just don't rotate the engine while on the stand. The nose gearbox seal can easily be damaged according to Rotech Research of Canada. I went to their engine classes and think they have the low down on maintenance. Several others on the forum have done as you (including me) and have had no issues.
Awesome.

[Hoenshell]

Ok, while I'm waiting on parts from Kitfox I thought I would finish up my wings. I need to build the fuel sight gauge and I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to do this. I really like the idea of using 90 degree elbows with the little red pill that comes in these fuel sight gauge kits. I would like to build a panel that covers the rib and supports the sight tubes with a 90 degree fitting poking through. I believe I've seen similar setups, but my tanks sit 2.5" behind that rib. Has anyone else done something similar to what I'm looking for?

[Esser]

Hey Shawn, all the kitfoxes has a sight gauge similar to how you described. The kit cones with a sight tube that has a wire bent in it like this ] so no 90 reg fittings are used. The tubes after the bends are long enough to make it closer to your butt rub if that makes sense.

[Hoenshell]

Yes, I understand how that is the way it’s normally done, but I’ve seen some use the 90 degree fitting that makes it a little cleaner and sight tube is more straight and without needing a wire. I will probably do the way you describe if can’t figure another way.

[efwd]

When You figure it out be sure to get back to us. I have been wanting to do the same. I had intentions of calling on the company that makes the fuel tank dipping guage. They are fuel resistant and they are very clear. I would just need for the manufacturer to not put the laser etched gradations on them. AS&S sells those fuel qty dipping pipes.. Their etched for specific aircraft typically.