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Thread: Turtle build

  1. #21
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    It's looking real good, Gary! It won't be too long and we'll have our own Colorado squadron. Then we'll go down & sneak up on those guys in Arizona (& Idaho, & Utah, &...).
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  2. #22
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    Gary,

    Looking good!

    Curious what you used to plug the holes in the bottom lip of the firewall for the rudder pedal bolts?

    Dave S

  3. #23
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    Dave, those are some plastic hole plugs I got from the local Ace Aviation Hardware store. They have a lip that retains them, but I also used a little silicone sealant in the groove for extra security.
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  4. #24
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    I'm working on my cowling now (and by the way, thanks Tom Waid for your super build log; it helped me understand trimming of the nose).
    The relaxed state of my upper cowl is splayed out relative to the lower cowl. The material is pretty thin here. As a result, when I pull it in with Clecos at the Camloc locations along the horizontal edge, I am getting the waviness seen in the photo. Anyone else dealt with this?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  5. #25
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    Hi Gary,

    I see no replies to your query yet so I will wade in with you. first, I feel your pain! I found the cowling one of the most challenging parts of the build to get right! At first glance, it does not look right to me. Can you post a few photos from further back to give some perspective? I am not clear which part we are looking at. I think you might get more responses from the group with a few more pics. It all needs to be sitting comfortably and neat before doing the camlocs - don't worry if you have to re-drill the holes - the old ones can be fibreglassed and faired fairly easy - but from my experience it takes a lot of time to get it just right - ( then maybe that was just me...)

    cheers

    ross
    Ross
    Mt Beauty, Vic
    OZ
    Sold to Richard and Scott Taubman in OZ, 2019. Kitfox SS7,Rotax 912is Sport, Airmaster CSP 75" blades.
    Landcruiser and Cub off road camper (doesn't get any kudos on this forum!)

  6. #26
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    Ross,
    I have both halves removed right now and mated to each other to evaluate cleanup of the three inlet aft edges. Here are a couple of photos in that configuration that still show the waviness. In both photos, it is the lower cowl that is nearest the camera. The fit at the boot cowl and prop flange is good, it is just that flaring of the upper cowl that is resulting in "bulging" between Camloc locations. Light pressure between the Clecos flattens things nicely, but I really don't want to double up on the number of Camlocs. (A pound of SuperFil is not appealing either )
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  7. #27
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    I think your are making a very nice job of it Gary. I am overseas at the moment so cant go and look at mine but have you tried using the camlocs instead of the clecos (without attaching them permanently?) It is just a thought but they apply a different sort of pressure the ones supplied with my kit were adjustable, thereby allowing for a just the right amount of pressure to provide an even and snug fit. I am certainly no expert on this - I hope other more experienced bods here weigh in on the discussion as I agree with you that it should sit more neatly than that. Only other thoughts are: Is the problem that the recess along the cowl not of even depth or are the holes not exactly perfectly aligned and causing the slight buckling when fastened? good luck.
    ross
    Ross
    Mt Beauty, Vic
    OZ
    Sold to Richard and Scott Taubman in OZ, 2019. Kitfox SS7,Rotax 912is Sport, Airmaster CSP 75" blades.
    Landcruiser and Cub off road camper (doesn't get any kudos on this forum!)

  8. #28
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    I am also having trouble knowing what to tell you. There is something on your earlier post #29 photo that doesn't look quite right-that raised ridge along the edge of the upper cowl doesn't belong there -I think. On mine the trimming process took all of that off. I am wondering if you have left too much in this area. Trimming more of it off might bring the joint farther back on the curve and require less pushing with the camlocks to force it into position. Its the only thing I can see that may help. I know it would require new holes and possibly refitting around the nose.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  9. #29
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    Gary, I had the same initial thought as Jim as to that ridge - I too removed it as part of the trimming.

    r
    Ross
    Mt Beauty, Vic
    OZ
    Sold to Richard and Scott Taubman in OZ, 2019. Kitfox SS7,Rotax 912is Sport, Airmaster CSP 75" blades.
    Landcruiser and Cub off road camper (doesn't get any kudos on this forum!)

  10. #30
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Turtle build

    It looks like you are trying to fit it off the plane. Cleco the lower half to the plane so it has its own weight to hold it stiff. Then, redrill the top half keeping it tight to the cowl and aligned to the spinner. Without the spinner, you aren't gonna get a good fit.

    The hardest part for me was trimming the cheek holes.

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