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Thread: aviator79's build

  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    I used Stits epoxy varnish, three parts varnish to 1 part thinner. It allowed the varnish to really penetrate, I brushed on 2 coats over all the wood in the plane.

  2. #12
    Senior Member aviator79's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    The manual calls for Hysol between the tank and the #1 and #3 rib capstrips. I have about 1/4 inch gap at the #1 rib, and 1/8" at the #3. Is the intent here to fill the gap with Hysol? That seems like a big gap to bridge. Would Superfil be more appropriate?

    The materials, skills, and methods are all new to me, so please excuse me if I ask a bunch of noob questions.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    I didn’t fill it all. The wooden spacers that are installed on the tank provide all the structural support. I believe this step is purely cosmetic
    ------------------
    Josh Esser
    Flying SS7
    Rotax 914iS
    AirMaster Prop

    Edmonton, AB, CWL3

  4. #14
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    My gap was even bigger. I placed tape on the under side and filled it in with Hysol. I wonder if Super Fill will flake out from the gap over time? If I do it again I might lay in Hysol a little thinner and then put Super Fill on top so that the sanding down to skin level would be easier. Make an attempt at pushing the tank outboard as far as possible. Maybe even trim the flange off some. You will benefit from the added space on the inboard side so that your fuel fittings will clear the first rib. I was afraid to trim it off in fear of causing a leak in the flange but I know people have done it successfully. Had I knew the fuel fittings were such a close fit I would have done so.
    Eddie

  5. #15
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    Quote Originally Posted by efwd View Post
    ... Make an attempt at pushing the tank outboard as far as possible. ... Had I knew the fuel fittings were such a close fit I would have done so.
    Eddie
    Good advice about positioning the tanks, Eddie. I filled my gaps on both sides with Hysol, thickened with flox. Used tape temporarily on the underside to help keep it from sagging also. I was able to smooth it out nicely, after a short amount of curing, so that no sanding was necessary.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  6. #16
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    Like Esser I didn't fill the #3 gap at all (put some extra wood spacer blocks). I wanted to leave that gap open to make the rib stitching easy. I would not use SuperFill (other than for some final smoothing) because it is not strong enough to take the flexing that occurs when the wing twists and flexes in turbulence, etc. Would be afraid it might flake loose.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  7. #17
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    So I positioned the tank outboard as far as I could and didn't fill the gap with anything, like Josh. There is enough room to allow rib stitching. Reason I did this is that I'm putting an access panel directly under the tank fittings for the purpose of inspection and to allow easy access and removal of the tank outlet/strainer fitting, and as a "just in case" scenario should I need to fix a fuel leak.
    David
    SS7 Builder

  8. #18
    Senior Member aviator79's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    Thanks guys. I have just enough gap on the #3 to rib stitch, so I think I'll just leave it open.

    New question: Should I have instructions for the Laker Leading Edge? I have the fiberglass pieces, but nothing that indicates what I do with them. It appears I use the short piece of leading edge extrusion, perhaps cut into small lengths, and install per the wing instructions to define the LE contour, and then just trim the fiberglass and yysol it to the ribs, but most of the options come with their own instructions, and I didn't want to start making stuff up if there's a manual somewhere that I'm missing.

  9. #19
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    I pushed the tank outboard like Eddie mentioned to get as much room as possible for the tank fuel fittings. I still used a thin strip of balsa under the flanges to support the Hysol. When I laid out the rib stitching, I simply drilled holes big enough for the stitching needle to pass thru easily. Worked well for me.
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  10. #20
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: aviator79's build

    I drilled holes for the lacing also.

    Regarding the Laker leading edge, I called Debra, and she sent a sheet with some pictures and instructions. It’s pretty simple, but it seems like you should get that with the darn things, especially considering what they cost. Yes, you do use little pieces of the original leading edge material to locate and align the LLE. Some short pieces of that material were included with my LLEs.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

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