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Thread: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

  1. #61
    Senior Member JoeRuscito's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    Yet another problem... I’ve installed the control column bushing in the mounting bracket bearing. It is barely larger than the bearings, so when installed and torqued it takes a lot of force to move the column. Is my bushing short? Can I lightly sand the tops of the brass bearings down?

  2. #62
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    Sand that bearing out until it’s completely free. Also on my build, I had to use washers to play with the pilot side mount. If I bolted to the airframe, it would really torque the tube and bind it up. All the stuff you are doing now just needs a little attention to make it all friction free. The rest of the build everything fits better.
    ------------------
    Josh Esser
    Flying SS7
    Rotax 914iS
    AirMaster Prop

    Edmonton, AB, CWL3

  3. #63
    Senior Member JoeRuscito's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    Ok bearing bushing sanded and smooth. Now I have the control column mounted and back drilled. I have some friction, not excessive but I’m not sure how much is acceptable. My control sticks are back ordered so it’s hard to gauge. Right now moving the sticks right to left (aileron) is free I.e. little to no friction. Moving forward and aft, when moving the column there’s a good amount of friction. Enough to hold the column in place when released, but smooth and similar through the range. Does this seem correct?

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    You want no friction, and no play either. I sanded until my control stick will fall to whatever way the aircraft is leaning. All the points of friction will add up so get them to move freely. I took apart the nylon bushing about 4 dozen times it seemed.

  5. #65
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    mine were a bit tight as you describe yours to be. I had to pull mine out and try again. I am not sure if the weather made things different but I agree, make things free as possible without creating play.
    Eddie Forward
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  6. #66
    Senior Member JoeRuscito's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    Made some progress the last few days.

    I got the link bolt into the control column, I had to grind 0.5 mm from one side of the bolt head, and do some wiggling but I got it in and I dont think Ive compromised the bolt in any meaningful way.

    Then, after about 20 tries, in out, in out, got the column bracket bushing smooth and square enough that I'm happy with the feel. Its mounted. I have an order from aircraft spruce to replace the well used lock nuts. No need to replace the actual bolts correct?

    On to the other side of the control column, I found a good way to sand the plastic mount/bearing, the kitfox supplied hysol syringe is a almost perfect fit with one wrap of sandpaper. Still needs some sanding to make it completely free when torqued down, but getting close. Also need to replace those nylocks!


    Also found a good way to ream the flap handle mount. This one was a pia! Ground a hex on the very end of the reamer so I could use a small socket. Mostly difficult because the tube axis is not quite parallel to the axis of the tab hole, and both are so close to the frame.

  7. #67
    jonstark's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    My two biggest faults are not having used nutplates for the rudder control attachment through the floorboards and not having spent more time getting the rudder controls to move freely. As they are now “sticky” I have to neutralize any rudder input. PITA.

    Jon
    Kitfox IV 1050, C180. Now I have two backcountry planes! WooHoo!

  8. #68
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    I remember on my control column mounting bracket, I had to experiment with removing or adding washers (thick, thin) under the bracket mounting holes to get it to lie square and flat in relation to the horizontal control tube. Once I did, it torqued down without binding.
    The plastic bearing/mount is a bugger because when you torque down the bolts, the nylon distorts more than you might think. I had to sand and sand until it felt somewhat loosey goosey before torquing; then it was just right after torquing. I also greased it lightly.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  9. #69
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    Joe, you have probably already figured this out , but go the the local hardware store for a variety of the approriate sized plain nuts to use for the put together , then take apart assemblies and save your good stopnuts for final assembly. Just flag them with some masking tape so you remember to reinstall the stop nuts when you are satisfied with the assembly. I can see you are becoming a homebuilder already as your ingenuity is starting to show. You will need this throughout the build process. Wait till you tackle the rudder torque tube assembly , it gave me fits, but make sure you get it to work nice and smooth with no drag , or you will regret it later( See note from Jon above). Bruce N199CL

  10. #70
    Senior Member JoeRuscito's Avatar
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    Default Re: Joe Ruscito's Kitfox S7 Build

    Jim... it sure is a bugger but I’m getting there. Maybe one one sanding session and I should be good.

    Bruce, I just bought AN duplicates that way if I forget they are already the correct hardware. To that point though, I have been using paper clips in place of cotter pins, is it safe to say unless the manual says otherwise I can cotterpin the bell ranks and control rigging?

    I’m working on the floor boards now. Can someone tell me what this cut out is for? In the upper left. It doesn’t seem to be for the weldment unless it needs some major sanding. Does something pass through here later?



    And lastly, I seem to have gotten a rod end absolutely stuck on the aileron rod. It was a bit sticky going on due to some extra powder coat on the end of the threads but nothing extreme, got about half way on and stopped, now it is not budging. Any suggestions? Already put it in the vice with no luck, I’m concerned I’m going to twist off the thread.

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