What's left on your punch list Joe? Seems like it's time to think about scheduling a DAR.
What's left on your punch list Joe? Seems like it's time to think about scheduling a DAR.
--Brian
Flying - S7SS
Lift struts. So I still have about 2 weeks of work! Haha But serious these things take some work and a ton of super fill had to order more.
I have to attach/glue the boot cowl.
Do fuel flow tests with wings on.
Finish wingtip wiring once I can take my paint booth down.
I think that’s all the big stuff.
Do most people have to remove prop and spinner plate and exhaust pipe to tonics lower cowl? Mine is seeming impossible to place with prop on.
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Its not impossible but is a little tricky to install the lower cowl without removing the prop/spinner. You have to develop a careful routine. On mine I have to carefully flex the top front edge of the cowl to slip it in behind the spinner backplate without scratching anything. Entirely doable. I think some folks have more trouble than others depending upon your personal final fitup of the lower cowl and spinner-to-cowl gap.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
My spinner-to-cowl gap is tighter than most. I can get my lower cowl on and off without removing the prop, but it requires some practice. It also rubs the lower cowl on the boot cowl just a bit, so I'm missing some paint where it rubs. I need to touch it up and then install a 3M protective film there. You might be able to open up your exhaust hole some to help. Loosening the exhaust stinger to get the lower cowl off might not be so bad, but if you have to remove your prop to get the lower cowl off, then I'd see if you can modify something to change that. You'll want to be able to get your cowls off frequently. I know with the Airmaster, it wouldn't be enough to remove the spinner. You'd have to remove the whole prop to get the backplate out of the way.
--Brian
Flying - S7SS
Thanks for the tips on the cowl. I was able to make it happen by putting the front up as far as I could behind the spinner. Then carefully bring the back end up and it just barely cleared the radiator.
I got my static pitch/rpm set at just shy of 5100. Ive been told this is a good place to start. I have the whirlwind 3 blade and the pitch is set at 21 degrees.
Also...
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... Safely at the hanger. Will be knocking out the punch list this week.
I have a potentially simple and maybe obvious question but how is everyone routing the air bleed from the header to the wing? Between the butt rib and the #1 or between the tank and the #1. Mine kinks when between the tank and #1.
Also, I think I want to replace my tail wheel. Suggestions? Do others replace the spring as well when changing the wheel assembly?
T3, tundra lite. 5 landings I have....👍👍
Dustin Dickerson
Building 7ss STI x 2
Oratex
29" shock monster
EP912STI 155hp
Garmin
N33TF......FLYING!
N53TF......FLYING!
Joe, my air vent goes between the tank and #1 rib and it kinks a little but not too bad. I bought a 90 degree fitting to replace the straight one, but have never gotten around to installing it. To run the tube anywhere else would be kind of ugly.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
Im using the T3 and the Standard ABI 3224 tailwheel. I got them both from Kitfox on John M's recommendation. Im really liking them. I modified the barbed fitting for the return fuel line by removing a barb or maybe two, I don't recall exactly. Mine does not kink.
Eddie Forward
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X
I have the same tailwheel and spring as Eddie, and really love it. No bouncy tail on rough surfaces, and when I touch the tailwheel first, the T3 handles it like a champ.
--Brian
Flying - S7SS
Thanks guys, I have my request into Kitfox.