Brandon always makes a point of telling people to pressure test after any filing or shaping of the tanks.
Brandon always makes a point of telling people to pressure test after any filing or shaping of the tanks.
--Brian
Flying - S7SS
Yea thats why I want to get this all done first!
Still working on getting my tanks to sit flush and installing my jury struts. Im waiting on a good day to get it outside and unfold the wings. In the meantime Ive been thinking about paint and epoxy primer for the spars and other metal parts. I don't think my kit came with any primer, so how much do I need to do the spars, stringers, and assorted uncovered metal?
Also in the realm of painting/spraying I know NOTHING! Any and all advice is welcomed. Id like to start getting my setup ready so I can do things like paint the cockpit black before I cover and paint any unprotected metal as I go.
Thanks as always!
Still a bit apprehensive about swaging these cables. By the book 62-63 inches put the swage a right on top of this cross beam (see picture) it would seem to me that if it was to hook on something when using The rudder this would be a good spot to hook the cables.
Mine ended up a couple inches forward from there. When there is tension in them, they won't catch that tube.
--Brian
Flying - S7SS
my 2 cents, I like 3 and 5.
Eddie Forward
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X
My vote would go to 3/7.
--Brian
Flying - S7SS
Well, yall picked out my favorites. Still iterating a bit.
In the meantime Ive been working on finishing up my wings. One wing is primed and has the leading edge installed. Still waiting on weather for the second. Also got my GMU11 plate installed. I decided to place it in the first bay in the right wing on the inbound rib. I can reach it with the wingtips off and it should be compliant with Garmin recommendations (or as compliant as you can be in a Kitfox!). I figured placing it in the right wing would also even out the cable/tubing runs in the rear spar, with the pitot on the left wing. I plan to mount the unit but attach the connector after covering.
I also got started on my lift strut fairing. Ive decided not to go with the Al cuff. My thinking was that its kinda heavy and would still take quite a bit of superfill to look good. I was careful with the fit of the ends so when I do fill and smooth I think the weight will be minimal compared to the cuff. And I think it will look better. The only advantage I see to the cuff is that it may add some strength if someone accidentally trips/steps on the fairing! I still need to trim the trailing edge so it doesn't intrude on the fuselage fabric. I will plan to put a single rivet in the leading fairing's trailing edge to make sure it doesn't unzip.
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I bought the twin pack (larger gun and smaller detail gun) that Harbor Freight sells. Used a desicant filter in line and I used a small pressure regulator at the gun. The Poly-tone is so forgiving I might have been able to spray it from a discarded windex spray bottle. Kidding of course.
Eddie Forward
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X
Thanks Yes I have the springs in place. I went ahead and did it. And it came out fine. I was likely overthinking it and I understand that spring tension will keep them away from catching... but it is possible given their position so I wanted to make sure.
Thanks for all the help as always!
I got my flaperons installed today and the control horns clecoed. This was a pretty exciting step for me. Finally also have my last coat of hysol on the balsa tips!
I’ll start the wing ends tonight. I think I’m getting close to having the wings structurally complete. Poly fiber class in ATL next weekend.