You are correct Jim, I remember the thread and sealed the holes on the edge of my caps at that point.
You are correct Jim, I remember the thread and sealed the holes on the edge of my caps at that point.
Phil Nelson
A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
Flying since 2016
Photo below shows where to look and seal the cap edges.
FF01BD88-8793-4652-92DC-5A791F254660.jpeg
The yellow marker tip shows where to seal using J.B. Weld.
Usually four locations around the rim to fill with a very small amount of J.B. Weld. These caps don’t always bypass the ram air from the cap tubes during flight but enough do that it warrants taking 10 minutes and sealing these areas.
The photo shows the Mercedees blue gaskets for a better seal of the caps. They are permanent replacements for the lower quality black rubber gaskets that come with the caps. They can be tight for some caps but a little “adjustment” of the cap retention tabs usually takes care of that issue if you’ve found your original black rubber seals not working or worse, breaking down from age.
A little wipe periodically of engine oil or fuel lube on the blue gaskets can make removal and reinstalling the caps much easier.
9C93EDD6-B3D1-4F7D-8A5F-D8807DAA8485.jpeg
Mercedees part number for blue cap seals.
DesertFox4
Admin.
7 Super Sport912 ULS Tri-gear
Kitfox is brazing those holes closed now. Well, they were when I got mine in Dec '20. See the attached image. The 4 holes on the outside go nowhere after the vent holes are brazed shut.
IMG_8630.jpg
Last edited by yocum137; 04-13-2022 at 01:36 PM.
Building N137DF
STi, Rotax 915is, Airmaster
Hey Dustin,
What did you use for heater fan speed control? Looks like a PWM control of some sort.
🇨🇦CANADA
Flying | SS7 | G3X | Edge 912
I don't have a decent flight result report and probably won't ever have one. There's a story here, not a "hold my beer" type so the details are a bit boring to anyone that isn't interested in the math or finer points so I'll try and be brief. First of all, once I got into the details of the analysis I "discovered" the premise of my approach was flawed from the get go so I had to back to what could have been. (My approach works with a constant speed prop - which I don't have.) Second, I didn't take enough baseline data to absolutely validate the accuracy of foundational data points. Third, as reported earlier, after installing the fairings I wasn't able to fly in calm (enough?) conditions to get reliable data. Cutting and chopping through the data I did discover there is really good reason to believe (know?) I was using less power at the same RPMs to achieve the same speeds. The picture was unmistakable and the final output report looks like this:
Drag reduction is somewhere between 5.4 and 8.4 pounds (which compares favorably to raw aerodynamic drag calculations based on the physical attributes that says it should be 7.3 pounds).
Putting the numbers into the formula indicates that the maximum (potential) speed improvement will be 3.7 knots (4.25 mph)
I just couldn't help myself (maybe a form of OCD?) but I went back to my glide speed graphs and, using that data, discovered that level flight at 96.2 knots (1127 pounds) takes 57.5 HP and using Rotax graphs a 912 ULS at 2000 ft density altitude and 5500 rpm is putting out slightly less than 65.4 HP. All this goes to propeller efficiency which would mean mine is running about 87% efficient - a number much larger than I would have guessed but within range of some of the best modern props.
All of the data and analysis seen here is not much better than "back of the envelope" calculations but, on the other hand, I was surprised at how well everything meshed within bounds of reasonableness.
A really short version of the long answer to your question - I'd not expect a speed improvement of more than 3.7 knots.
See my build log at:http://www.mykitlog.com/lowandslow/
Exactly. I had a little pinhole on one of those welds that was causing a little loss of pressure on that tank. Also, if you have the blue gaskets and the cap still isn’t as tight as you’d like it, you can gently bend those 2 tabs to correct it. I did that too. Worked great.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
New fuel caps have been working great. I still get about 1/3 tank fuel imbalance and then it will finally equalize when it gets lower fuel levels but its not pushing fuel into the opposite wing anymore.
Did a trip into Johnson Creek prior to going to the Kitfox flyin. Idaho back-country is not for the faint of heart. Its an entire different game up there. Flying down the bottom of a deep canyon with no options to land if you had troubles. Plane ran great and performed like a champ. I went into a dozen different strips. The highlights where "Mile High, and Dewey Moore." Loved flying into the lodges to get breakfast after hitting a few new strips in the morning. Great to have an seasoned Idaho pilot (Scott Noble) before going into some very inhospitable terrain. Did a post flight inspection today and everything looked good. Only issue I have is some finishing tape on me tail is starting to separate. Debating on pull it all off or trying to salvage it? Sent of an oil sample to check the health of the engine to also make sure everything internal is still happy. I took a gopro to try and film some but it turns out you have to remember to turn it on and off. Didn't get any of "Mile High" and only the landing of "Dewey Moore". Here is a couple of photos. After JC we flew down to check out the flyin. Pretty fun to check everyones planes and talk kitfox's.
Dustin Dickerson
Building 7ss STI x 2
Oratex
29" shock monster
EP912STI 155hp
Garmin
N33TF......FLYING!
N53TF......FLYING!
Its been hot and TS here so not much flying going on. Working on making some new parts.
Dustin Dickerson
Building 7ss STI x 2
Oratex
29" shock monster
EP912STI 155hp
Garmin
N33TF......FLYING!
N53TF......FLYING!
Shadowrider,
I have the same engine and had a few questions if you don't mind:
1. how did you get the Boost Temp in the Garmin? Which probe and where did you attach it?
2. I'm running a vernier throttle, but I have it it running through the 90° bend (which I hate). Did you have to do anything else special with the throttle arm Aviator97 made for you or was it pretty straightforward once you have that part.
Thank you so much,
Jeff