bbs428 Build

[airlina]

Brett , nice solution to the flaperon/ turtledeck transition , nice and clean. From your photos i see you installed the phenolic bearings . I see you're plane is a '98 Series 5 Outback , mine is a '99 Series 5 Outback , and even though those bearings were supplied in my kit , the factory did away with them about when I was starting mine . they determined they were now longer needed and didn't have a purpose anymore. Been 20 years flying mine and i can verify they don't have a purpose because I didn't install them . Bruce N199CL

[bbs428]

I knew there was a reason I had not riveted my flaperon linkage together!
I'm not sure how this escaped me, as this topic had to be talked about while I have been building. Did you cut off the metal support plate as well, or leave it?
I'm always looking for reasons to reduce weight... my own included, lol, although I'll have to repaint them, as I have polished the metal where it makes contact with the bearing.

I appreciate the heads-up on the bearings and your kind words on the flaperon seal Bruce, Thank you!

[PapuaPilot]

I also eliminated those plastic bearings for the same reason. A couple of years ago I cut off the angle brackets that hold them to save weight and they made it more challenging to fold the wings.

[bbs428]

Agreed Phil. I did the same thing a few days ago. After I cut mine off, I used some white 3m, 5200 polyurethane sealant to make it all pretty again.

Getting used to the winch. It sure makes it easier to muscle the plane back into the shop!

Empty weight came out to be 803.5lbs. @ 12.26 cg. I'm happy about that!
I was guessing I'd be in at 850lbs. The earthX battery, NR prop, the small 6.00x6 tubeless tires and the Beringer wheels took a lot of weight off.

Static engine run rpm with the NR prop set at 16 deg. is 5400. I'll have to dial in another 1/2 deg or more to get the static rpm down a bit. Balancing the prop with the Dynavibe was easy but tedious. I initially used washers under the spinner screws. After it was balanced, I used wheel weights. I do not have a lip around the spinner, so the weights had to go inside and under the fastener tabs. Had to start all over again! Lol. I was finally able to get it to .03 IPS @ 5400rpm and .02 IPS @ 1620rpm.

The primary 45-amp alternator output is too high @14.6vdc. The EarthX battery likes 14.2 with 14.5 at the most. So, it looks like I'll have to modify the alt. and remove the internal reg. and set up an external regulator. Finding an internal reg. with the output I need is a challenge, as most are set at 14.5vdc. and tbh - the external will be the best solution as it's safer and adjustable. More testing and modifying is needed before the 1st flight.

The AFR is proving to be a great tuning tool. Initially, I had 9.5 at idle and after a few adjustments it's 13.8. Mid-range is still fat @ 10.5 but at 5400rpm it was 14.2. Idle is noticeably smoother now that it's leaned out a bit. I have 2 hrs. on the engine and it's running very well. Pulls like a freight train!

Setting up the G3x has been fun and challenging. All my engine gauges are set up now and all are working correctly. I have oil press., oil temp, water temp, cyl. head temp, 1 and 2, volt, and amp.

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[Jerrytex]

What did you use to make the blocks on the pedals?

[bbs428]

What did you use to make the blocks on the pedals?

Rudder Pedal Extensions by AntiSplatAero.com | Anti Splat Aero LLC

I added the lightning holes to the stock rudder pedals and the Anti-Splat blocks.

[bbs428]

After dorking around with the wing cuff molds (I made two sets) I decided I didn't want to invest the time and $$ to vacuum bag. So, I used the molds to make a 2d construction paper template. I refined the template then cut out a set of cuffs from some thin, scrap sheet aluminum. They are small, very light and fit well. I wanted to cover the leading edge of the windscreen and keep it flush with the outside edge. I tried to keep the fastener lined up with the other windscreen fasteners. I'm no metal fabricator, so they were a challenge to get them to look right and fit right.
Be careful that you tape the sharp edge of the cuff as you fit it to the plane. You could cause a scratch on your windscreen or paint! Ask me how I know!

I used some 5200 sealant to make a gasket on the back side of the cuff as the seal that came with the kit did not work well. When they are totally cured in a few days, I'll paint the sealant if needed. The thin layer of 5200 makes a nice seal.

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[Jason Murphy]

Rudder Pedal Extensions by AntiSplatAero.com | Anti Splat Aero LLC

I added the lightning holes to the stock rudder pedals and the Anti-Splat blocks.

Brett, what did you use to prime your center console? I am looking to either prime my header tank and I would like to paint my console and panel

[bbs428]

Heya Jason,

I used a 2-part epoxy grey automotive primer. Reminded me of the grey that all our military planes have so I kept it as the final paint. Has a nice non-reflective matt finish. Easy to use. Mixed 50:50

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On my fuselage tubes and header tank, I used the white primer. If you're using a topcoat paint that is translucent such as some reds and yellows, then use the white primer.

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[bbs428]

We are on week 5 of "maybe next week" until the DAR can be here. So...

Chase (Sky Pirate) and I have been keeping busy modifying a damaged boat trailer to haul the Kitfox with. We had to straighten out the frame with a hydraulic ram and twist it back to being true. Passenger side spindle was bent so it was replaced. Purchased two, barely used, 15" tire/wheel combo and a nice set of aluminum fenders from the same source.
We used some scrap steel, a 4" grinder, saws all, a tape measure, a wire welder and some good Ol' Yankee ingenuity to create our monster. Proud to say we have about $350.00 bucks in it, not counting the scrap steel!
I have enough left-over polyurethane paint from the plane to make it look pretty. I still have to mount the tail-through-bolt devise and some weld-on tie down rings. I'll be using basket straps for the main wheel hold-downs.

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