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Thread: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

  1. #1
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    Default Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    Howdy all;
    I am happy to say I have the model-4 factory powered coat all removed from the door frames, and am ready to install the Williams wide body kit, but had a few questions before welding, and maybe some of you can help. The Williams kit just included six formed sheet metal body extension (angled C-channel), three for each side. Looks like they will need some material removed to fit over a few tube intersections, but I assume I just trim them, level them out and weld, right?
    The kit metal seems kind of thin, and I was thinking my big butt might bend them down when I get in. Is anyone having a problem with bending the lower wide body extension down during entry/exit? Has anyone welded in some additional support under the extension plates?
    Let me know, any pictures welcome of course
    Thanks
    Roger

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    Senior Member bbs428's Avatar
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    Default Re: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    Hey Roger - Had some pics of my series 4 wide body install so here they are. There are many ways to go about it. This is how I did it.

    Clamp the parts to your airframe and trim carefully where you need to in order to get a nice fit. Remember your going to use super-fill at the joints to make a smooth transition so don't worry about any small gaps as long as the new panels are seated nicely on the airframe tubes.
    Mock it up, level and eyeball your new framework for level and square. Mark the tubes where you need to remove the powdercoat. Prior to welding check for level and square then tack weld. I used a straight edge to check for square from side to side across the seat to verify the panels were aligned as well. I did not make a solid weld but a series of small stitch welds as to not get the existing frame tubing to hot.
    Sorry cannot remember the settings on my miller welder. I did use .023 wire. but if you have a few scrap pieces of sheet metal do a few practice welds. Chrome moly is easy to weld so no worries.

    I wondered also about how to reinforce/transition the wide body kit into the existing airframe. Sitting on the lower piece getting into the airplane deformed the metal enough to be a concern. I came up with a series of light ply angles attached with aeropoxy light. I didn't feel like welding metal for this and stress the frame with more heat. It came out plenty strong and made a nice transition for the fabric.
    The pictures show better how I did this. Hope this helps.

    All the best!!

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    "Somebody said that carrier pilots were the best in the world, and they must be or there wouldn't be any of them left alive." Ernie Pyle

    Brett Butler
    Flying: N46KF, 1998 Model 5 Outback, 912ul 110hp, G3x with 2 axis a/p, Beringer wheels & brakes, SS7 firewall forward, NR prop, Custom paint

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    Default Re: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    Wow, such good pictures, thanks !!!
    I started mine today, using the tig-spot weld process.
    The clamp holds the special gas lens in place, but I have to make sure it's centered over the tube, which requires some custom alignment marks on the bottom of the clamp, and a mirror. Almost fool proof, with a little practice.
    Roger

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    Default Re: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    Here are some pics showing my current williams wide body install on the model-4, using the Tig spot-weld kit from Eastwood. Note how the special gas lens mounts into the vice-grip clamp, supplied in the kit. Markings on the clamp allow me to align the tube from the bottom to get the weld in the right place, using a mirror in some cases. Goes pretty fast, keeps the metal cool and un-warped. Note, I did spot weld in some reinforcements at the joints, just in case of over stress from my fat butt.
    Roger
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Senior Member bbs428's Avatar
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    Default Re: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    Looks great. Nice spot welds!
    "Somebody said that carrier pilots were the best in the world, and they must be or there wouldn't be any of them left alive." Ernie Pyle

    Brett Butler
    Flying: N46KF, 1998 Model 5 Outback, 912ul 110hp, G3x with 2 axis a/p, Beringer wheels & brakes, SS7 firewall forward, NR prop, Custom paint

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    Default Re: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    I welded added steel tubes to support the sheet metal. I really like the plywood supports shown above, wish I had thought of it.

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    Default Re: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    Quote Originally Posted by rogerh12 View Post
    Here are some pics showing my current williams wide body install on the model-4, using the Tig spot-weld kit from Eastwood. Note how the special gas lens mounts into the vice-grip clamp, supplied in the kit. Markings on the clamp allow me to align the tube from the bottom to get the weld in the right place, using a mirror in some cases. Goes pretty fast, keeps the metal cool and un-warped. Note, I did spot weld in some reinforcements at the joints, just in case of over stress from my fat butt.
    Roger
    Looks like the sheet metal pieces are positioned to far in? When I did mine I
    Welded the broke lip to the tube,it was tight no gap and welded under the sheet metal to the tubes.
    I wouldn’t just spot weld them.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Default Re: Williams Wide Body Kit, Installation Question model -4-1200

    I could not find any actual instructions for adding the wide body kit, so I just followed other examples I saw. Williams supplied the side panes as wide c-channels, so I trimmed them a bit and welded them with with the inside edge,,,well inside the fuse. I didn't weld the sides of the C-channel, though I could, I just spot welded from the top. It stiff as a brick right now, almost no deflection when I press on the edges. Note: I did some test with the new Tig spot welder, and found I could not tear the weld apart without using a chisel, or tearing up the surrounding metal (0.035 thick).

    Note: I like the custom cargo area posted previously, as the cargo bag does move around and I had to put some metal in place to keep it from ever moving laterally into the aileron controls.

    Roger

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