--Brian
Flying - S7SS
I installed my tanks more to the outboard side to give more room for the fittings on the inboard side. That made the tank-to-rib gap pretty narrow on the outboard side, and quite wide on the inboard side. So I only filled the outboard gap with Hysol (and drilled it for rib stitching).
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
My tank to rib gap is about 1/4 inch.I assume there is no hysol,as there is a lot of flexing between the two which has caused the paint to start failing.
A bridged joint would possibly eliminate this.
My tanks were not square, and I had to do some trimming on the right tank to get it to fit in between ribs 1 and 3. The hysol bridge is about 5/16” on the outboard side of the tank. The tanks also had some twist to them so they rocked a bit. The hysol is pretty hard, so I decided to drill through the top and bottom of the tanks to allow rib stitching, instead of drilling through the hysol to save time. This is going to be awesome.
I did the same as Jim and for the same reasons.
- Gary
S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
See my build log at:http://www.mykitlog.com/lowandslow/
You need to pressure test the tanks if you actually drilled through the flange. It would have been better to drill the Hysol.....
Sloshing the tanks after they are installed in the wing might seem like a daunting task. There may have been a thread discussing attaching a washing machine motor to a wing rotisserie to make the job easier. An advance thread search might be required.
Carl Strange
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X