Paint and stuff

[jiott]

Flyboy, I needed to buy an extra pint of PolyTak, and an extra quart of PolyBrush; however this was only for fabric application and the Brushed coats of PolyBrush. The sprayed coats of PolyBrush would require more. Kitfox does sell these things. Apparently you haven't looked thru the Kitfox accessories catalog; many nice optional things in there including extra building/fabric materials. The 3" bias tape was for the perimeter finish tapes on highly curved edges of the stabilizer, elevator, rudder, and vertical fin. Much easier to use than the standard tape. Brushes and MEK from local hardware store. A caution about MEK; most stores are now selling a substitute MEK (less toxic) and it is getting harder to find the real MEK. I used the real stuff and have heard that the substitue is not nearly as good. Wear a good respirator.

[Flyboy66]

I'm not sure if this is what you're suggesting, but blush retarder does not make the Polytone glossier, it just prevents it from blushing if you're spraying in a high-humidity environment.

You can add flattener to the Aerothane to try to match the Polytone though.

The poly fiber book said that the longer it takes to cure, the glossier PolyTone gets ( but still not as glossy as Aerothane). They said blush retarder makes the PolyTone a little more glossy because it slows down the offgassing which reduces blush and increases cure time. But I haven’t asked what others have experienced.

I may do the whole thing in Aerothane, but it sounds like touch ups and repairs are more labor intensive.

[efwd]

I bought the nicest HVLP guns they had. They come as a pair with case, cleaning equipment and tool to disassemble. I was very pleased with the top, gravity feed hopper except when trying to paint the underside of the fuselage.
If your looking to get more gloss from polytone I believe the instructions are to add the reducers that are for hotter days, 85 degrees or more. It slows the dry time and therefore allows more time for it to smooth out. I sprayed with the 65-85 reducer and it dried quick, like 4-5 min to the touch. My garage was 80-85 degrees. I will not use poly-tone on my airplane the next time. I got overspray on an area. I quickly tried to remove it with alcohol and rag. This paint won't withstand anything but water apparently. God forbid I get fuel on it. My alcohol and rag removed the paint. Fortunately, Poly-Tone is very easily repaired. I masked the area off and reapplied paint and you cant really tell I did it unless I point it out. Of course these were already hard lines that I had to mask off but I feathered one edge and it looks great. I will use aerothane the next time I think. I will know a little bit more about painting and hopefully I won't make the same errors next time. I made errors and you will see them. Oh well, I accept that this is for recreation.
Eddie

[DesertFox4]

I painted my model 4 with polytone using blush retarder at about 100 degrees F. here in Phoenix. When cured, it held up incredibly well over 13 years in service and had no problem with fuel spills ect. I even got a nice semi-gloss to it that looked very good.

[efwd]

That is reassuring Steve. Thanks for your input. I am hoping I don't regret this paint.
Eddie

[ken nougaret]

I used poly-tone on the fabric and aerthane on the rest. I completed the aircraft 14 months ago. The poly is holding up fine but i only clean with soap and water; it will not hold up to chemicals. Fuel is fine on the poly but dont get raw fuel on white cause it stains.
Per the poly-tone rep, put the gallon of paint in the refridgerator the night before and it will shine more. Thats what i did and with a couple coats of ReJex wax i think i have a semi gloss.
Ken

[DesertFox4]

Also Eddie, per PolyFiber's recommendation, only Carnuba wax should be used on Polytone paint. And after it has cured a while.

[PapuaPilot]

It is true that the slower the Polytone dries that smoother and shinier it will be. I tried to shoot most of mine when it was below 70 degrees, 65-70 was ideal. If it is over 80 I think it is wise to use the retarder.

[efwd]

Thanks for the reminder Steve. I have some "special" wax to use on the Oratex but I notice that it has apparently gone very bad. I seems it has separated out and shaking it does nothing. I think I would have applied it to the paint as well but having been reminded, I will use Carnuba on everything I think.
John, did you use the "special wax"?
Eddie

[colospace]

Dang, I was about to order some of that "special" wax. Can you provide a bit more insight into why it will not remix? I'll probably want to have a discussion with Lars before buying any myself.