Ordering and Options

[jiott]

To further clarify, the regular lift strut fairings are a split snap-on plastic fairing that fits over the standard round steel lift struts. They are fairly cheap and do a marvelous job of reducing drag; however, they are somewhat heavy-about 12 lbs I believe. The 4130 streamline lift struts are 4130 steel shaped as an airfoil. I'm sure they would do just as much good as the plastic fairings for reducing drag, and they would be simple and quick to install and I assume save some weight. The downside is they are very expensive.

[jrevens]

To further clarify, the regular lift strut fairings are a split snap-on plastic fairing that fits over the standard round steel lift struts. They are fairly cheap and do a marvelous job of reducing drag; however, they are somewhat heavy-about 12 lbs I believe. The 4130 streamline lift struts are 4130 steel shaped as an airfoil. I'm sure they would do just as much good as the plastic fairings for reducing drag, and they would be simple and quick to install and I assume save some weight. The downside is they are very expensive.

I don't know... The steel lift struts probably weigh considerably more than the round tubing. It depends on the gauge of material used. If you had aluminum ones like RANS uses they might be lighter.

[jiott]

Weight wise I was comparing the round steel struts + plastic fairings to the streamlined steel struts. As you say, it depends on the gauge of steel used, but I would think that the streamlined struts could be a lighter gauge because the cross-section is bigger. I guess at this point we don't really know, until Kitfox gives some specs on them; maybe they have and someone knows a weight comparison?

[jrevens]

Weight wise I was comparing the round steel struts + plastic fairings to the streamlined steel struts. As you say, it depends on the gauge of steel used, but I would think that the streamlined struts could be a lighter gauge because the cross-section is bigger. I guess at this point we don't really know, until Kitfox gives some specs on them; maybe they have and someone knows a weight comparison?

Sure, I know you were, Jim. I was basing my comment on looking at the steel ones that Kitfox had on their airplane at OSH last year. I’m sure that John McBean could provide the specs and weight comparison now if he wanted to, but it seems to me that they probably had at least as heavy a wall thickness as the standard strut tubing. I suspect there is no weight savings... I could be wrong of course.

[Esser]

For the price of those stream lined metal ones, you could probably get carbon fibre fairings and be lighter....

[AirFox]

Two big advantages of the Streamlined Struts are saving all the labor of installing the plastic streamline kit and being able to inspect the struts under the plastic. Again I would definitely get the streamlined struts if I had known what I know now.

[bholland]

Eddie,
I saw your post about the foam melting on your tips when you heated your Oratex. Sad to say but I made my tips the same way and I am also planning on using Oratex. I hate redoing things especially when it is one of the few things that came out good with my lack of skills. Has anyone else had the same problem whether covering with Oratex or fabric? If anyone has any ideas beside replacing them with balsa wood I'm all ears. Thanks for posting what happened I'm sure you saved me from having a bad day

Brett
mykitlog.com/bholland

[jiott]

If I were you, I would try coating the foam tips with a pretty heavy layer of Hysol (I believe you are supposed to do some coating anyway). A test on a leftover piece would be easy to do, and try using the required Oratex heat on it. I'm betting it would work fine, as long as you don't dwell a long time on it, allowing the heat to soak way in.

[Esser]

I used balsa and superfil. They are very hard so they can withstand bumps and much easier to work with than hydro for sanding. I can’t find a finished product pic of the top of the rudder

[efwd]

I did use Hysol as was recommended. You would need about an eighth inch layer in my opinion. As I was trying to get the Oratex to wrap smooth, which requires about 400F the hysol and foam began to develop depressions. Just redo the foam and don't fret it. Balsa or nothing at all is what I would do if I did it again.
Eddie