I'm a long ways off from painting, but looking for comments pro or con on paint.
Thanks
Brian
I'm a long ways off from painting, but looking for comments pro or con on paint.
Thanks
Brian
Poly tone is lighter, Aerothane shines more. better breathing protection is required with Aerothane as well. JImChuk
I don't have first hand experience, but in my own research I have found the following general consensus:
Poly-tone is easier to repair, can be sprayed wearing a cartridge respirator, and has a more vintage fabric-covered look. It can be buffed to a pleasant sheen, but not a high gloss. It also stains easier and is less resistant to solvents. (That's why it is easier to repair.)
Urethanes require a supplied air breathing system, give a "wet look" gloss, and are very resistant to stains and chemicals. They must be sanded off to make repairs. If you are willing to look at other Urethanes besides Aero-thane, you may also have a larger color palette to choose from.
FWIW, the factory-built planes are urethane coated.
Urethane is hands down a tougher better product but not as forgiving on amateur application has polytone.
I painted my plane with a urethane product.
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Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
From my limited experience:
Urethane pros: shiny, durable
negatives: heavier, more difficult to spray, more difficult to repair, requires mixing hardener, more expensive, more toxic, susceptible to cracking.
Poly-tone pros: lightest, easy to spray, easy to repair, only mixing thinner, lower cost, dont need fresh air face mask, most flexable for fabric.
negatives: not as shiny, NOT resistant to chemicals.
I really wanted a shiny plane, like the factory built. But i couldnt bring myself to go that route. Im happy with my choice of poly-tone and with a couple coats of wax it has enough bling.
SS7 O-200 Whirlwind
I would have to disagree with this comment. My urethane paint can be folded pinched bent over a 1/8" dowel and pulled back and forth and it won't crack. Automotive urethanes can have plastisicers added to make it "flexible" for bumpers and things. These will crack. True formulated for fabric urethane won't crack.
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Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
Water-based paint
I just thought I'd throw this into the equation. No solvents make the physical side of spraying and cleaning a lot more pleasant. My friend is just doing his RV8 and is very impressed with the paint. You need to use slightly different spraying techniques to solvent-based paint and it's best just to buy the kit they recommend but, having done that, it appears to work very well.
My Kitfox 4 is painted in aerothane. I've painted lots and lots of cars, boats, etc and NEVER had a problem putting down a show car finish, until aerothane. It has no fillers like car paint uses, so it is very flexible. But a ***** to paint, it runs all over the place, like painting water. Unless I was in a very high humidity area, I would use polytone and clear coat it with clear aerothane. That makes for a really nice shiney finish that is lightweight and yet easy to apply. (That is what Murle Williams has used on a couple of his award winning airplanes).
Other than that, I would use a different product, like Airtech, Stewarts, or Loehle. All of them can be applied over polyfiber base products, or over their own base (which is much easier and lighter imho).
Sorry for being so truthful. But I think I've painted my last Aerothane...there are better products.
My experience has been with Aerothane - two Model IVs. First a comment on a comment. It was suggested that Aerothane can crack. That was answered previously, but the earlier cracking comment can more accurately be applied to Polytone. Do a Google search on Polytone cracking. Then, and this is only my opinion, if you are a professional painter and spend 8 hours a day behind a spray gun for many years, then for sure have a fresh air respirator to protect your health. For me, though, the probable 4 or 5 hours total I actually spent in the booth spraying two airplanes doesn't come close to being a significant health hazard. I did use a high quality filtered respirator, but wasn't concerned with the risk. Sort of reminds me of the time when restoring an antique automobile with the dreaded asbestos brake linings. I worked with asbestos one day in my lifetime vs. Every day for 40 hears - not a problem.
I talked to John McBean and he made a great suggestion. He said I should do the wing bays near the fuel tank in Aerothane so they wouldn't get fuel stains that wouldn't come out if it was Polytone.
I did my wings in Aerothane and got a few runs with the final color. I did the fuselage in Polytone for repairability in case I ever get a cut or rock hole in the fabric. I did the cowlings, doors and panels in Aerothane and have a little mismatch of the reds.
Phil Nelson
A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
Flying since 2016