Help needed with new Warp drive on my 582

[beeryboats]

This is what we've always called a skull cap spinner. It does not cover the whole hub or have cut outs for the blades. It has a fairly thick base plate with a central stem that is threaded for a central screw from the spinner cap.

I assume the back plate for the spinner replaces the "face plate" called out in the prop instructions, but I'm not 100% sure.
Jay

[beeryboats]

Just found on Hover Hawk web site that the spinner back plate can be used as the face plate on Warp drive props. Just wasted an entire day on this issue. Wish they included instructions with the spinner....
Jay

[avidflyer]

As long as you are this far into the day, give Darrel a call at Warp Drive in the morning and get an answer from him. He is real good to talk with. If his info on the site isn't clear enough, maybe he will fix it and the next guy won't have the same issue as you just had. JImChuk

[beeryboats]

Per the log books the former owner set the GSC prop at 17 degrees. Not sure where he measured this at on the blade...
Anyone remember where they set their blade pitch at? Or at least a good starting point.

[t j]

GSC pitch is measured at 75% of the blade length. Warp drive degrees of pitch is measured at the tips of the blades. My 503 is set at 11.5 degrees at the tip, I suspect the 582 will need a little more than that.

FWIW, you're not the only one confused by the warp installation instructions. I installed my warp prop with the skull cap spinner 16 years ago and the instructions about the face plate confused me too.

[beeryboats]

GSC pitch is measured at 75% of the blade length. Warp drive degrees of pitch is measured at the tips of the blades. My 503 is set at 11.5 degrees at the tip, I suspect the 582 will need a little more than that.

FWIW, you're not the only one confused by the warp installation instructions. I installed my warp prop with the skull cap spinner 16 years ago and the instructions about the face plate confused me too.

Thanks Tom. I'm a little worried if I set it too low it may over rev the engine during break-in. Or if I set it too aggressive it may not rev enough to wear it in either.

[beeryboats]

I changed out the "face plate" for the spinner back plate and that worked fine. My issue is now the mounting bolt length and the length of the spacers inside the hub. If the hub pulls together enough to take the slack out of the spacers, which I doubt, the mount bolts will hit the gearbox. And what blows my mind is they include washers and lock nuts for the mount bolts but the crank shaft flange is threaded. But the bolt heads are not drilled for safety wire! Are you supposed to wiggle the lock nut behind the flange and somehow torque it to spec against the back side of the flange?

[t j]

Warp doesn't use safety wire to secure the mounting bolts. They use lock nuts on the mounting bolts instead. You torque the mounting bolts into the prop flange then tighten the locking nuts.

I don''t have the bolt tightening sequence instructions for the standard hub. Mine is the HPL hub and those instructions are to torque the mounting bolts first, then torque the blade clamping bolts.

In your photos the mounting bolt spacers appear to be kind of short. Better call Darrel like Avidflyer suggested and or send him those photos too.