Believe it or not, there's a guy in Texas who has covered several super cubs with Oratex, & actually covered the cowl & other parts with it too. Seems like it would be pretty difficult to make it look good, at least for me.
Believe it or not, there's a guy in Texas who has covered several super cubs with Oratex, & actually covered the cowl & other parts with it too. Seems like it would be pretty difficult to make it look good, at least for me.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
I thought about that. i would be very interested in covering the cowl. I might try the wingtips since they are smaller and less risk if i mess up. if i had guts, id try to cover the ailerons
I am trying to figure out a couple of processes. i understand that application goes: edges, shrink, tapes. But, can you do a surface at a time? For example on the fuselage, can I complete the bottom before doing the sides? I am using John's pattern and I think it should go vertical fin, turtle deck, bottom, and finally the sides last.
I'm also seeing conflicting info about glue drying time. I see 24 hours to a couple of hours. I guess it all depends.
Its a challenging and fun puzzle to work out.
Tim,
I started on the bottom first, then the sides , and finished with the top. The only reason I know of for doing the bottom last is because the bottom is the most vulnerable to damage, and if you had to re-cover a whole section (like the bottom), it would be somewhat easier if it was the last piece installed.
Glue drying time is variable depending on temperature and humidity. When it turns clear, with no milkiness, I think it's good to go. I would wait for an additional hour or 2 minimum when I did mine. Overnight is good, but it can be ready to go after just a few hours (or, you can wait for a month if you want to).
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
Out of town right now, so I'm not staying on top of the posts daily. I wanted to use Stewart Systems so I didn't have to worry for my health or have my neighbors after me. After several trials, they matched my Oratex Fokker Red pretty well I think. I did use their flattener too on the red. I am using their bright white as well and it matches my powder coat well. I am consistently getting a uniform orange peel is my only issue, though that may actually make an even better match to the fabric. When I get to my wingtips,spinnervous and lift struts, I will try thinning further.
- Gary
S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
Hey Gary,
May be preaching to the choir here, but it may help someone else.
The most common cause of orange peel is inadequate spray pressure at the gun. Usually because either the gauge is not at the gun or the pressure is read static (without the trigger pulled). The pressure required is when flowing (trigger pulled) to get full atomization.
2nd is spray distance and speed.
3rd cause is wrong tip size.
4th is poor gun or not cleaned well enough.
Thinning may help, but I'd check the rest 1st.
It is much harder out here in Denver to get everything right due to our dry climate and wide temperature swings. And so, what might be right today, might be totally wrong tomorrow.
I always check all the above and then test spray with minimal thinner and add if I need to until it flows right.
Greg
Finally back home. Greg your point about pressure may be worth playing with when I get back to painting (trying to get landing light provisions done to my wing tips). My gun is cleaned regularly and I'm using the recommended tip, but the gun is stamped for 20 psi max so that is what I've been using. This has worked just fine in the past for spraying automotive acrylics, but I don't think it would hurt anything to try bumping up the pressure a bit higher than that.
- Gary
S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon