Dave, You could easily convert your single switch to a single 3-way switch using the same hole in the panel. My 3-way works great: center-off; down-one fan; up-two fans. Just a little rewiring.
Dave, You could easily convert your single switch to a single 3-way switch using the same hole in the panel. My 3-way works great: center-off; down-one fan; up-two fans. Just a little rewiring.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS
I have no clue yet (Turtle Build you know) as to whether it is the best way to go, but I made an airflow diverter to separate the flow of each fan to their respective footwells. I plan to put the fans on separate switches to allow pilot or passenger to turn on according to their needs. I also have a control valve to modulate water flow(with its knob just under the panel to the right of the throttle and choke). It is set forward to avoid interference with the right stick.
- Gary
S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
Hi Gary
Very cool looking installation. Not sure if you will benefit from the diverter or not. I also have a control valve but usually run it wide open and just flip the power switch on or off as necessary. Nice touch on yours though. Great looking work.
Cheers
Do
I have the Kitfox heater and have the copilot side blowing down and the pilot side blowing up for defrost. I flew with a friend in his KF IV on ski's a few winter's ago here in the Pacific NW and we never turned the heat on. My way, the wife can't complain and the windshield can be deiced if need be. Each side is on a separate switch.
Stan Inzer
912 ULS
Dynon Skyview 10"
N599KF
I ordered this one after lots of looking. http://www.universalpartsinc.com/sho...750255&c=10550 At 16,000 BTU's I should be able to roast a turkey. It should be an easy install with its compact size. There's no reason these things should be so expensive, just a heater core with a fan behind it. I wish cooling was so simple. With all the Lexan over head, full acrylic doors and turtledeck, it's like a greenhouse inside if the sun's shining. Winters tend to be fairly mild in NC but when you need heat, you need it bad. I should be able to fly without a jacket this winter. I'm looking forward to trying it out.
Ha roast a turkey I like that, hopefully not suck all the heat right out of your engine,
I am working on a cabin heater for my model 4, and filosophizing a little about efficiency.
My thought is that water always follows the way of least resistance which, mainly because of the thinner hoses to the heater core and the restriction of the ball valve, would be mainly via the belly radiator. Therefore reducing the efficency of the heater core.
Would it be worth to install a three way ball valve in the coolant lines? This would give the possibily to divert coolant from the belly radiator to the heater core, maximizing capacity.
Downside would be that such a ball valve is quite hefty, I have one laying around and it weighs about 3 pounds.
Of course you would need to watch out for engine overheating with the belly radiator completely blocked, my theory is that during very cold weather a big enough heater core ( I am planning on using one originally used on one of those Thielert aircraft diese engines) this won't be too big of a problem.
Also, these three way valves theoretically have infinite intermediate positions. Allowing coolant to flow both to the radiator and the heater core.
So the big question is, would this extra weight and complexity be worth is? Or is my rambling mind seeing problems that really don't exist?
I am curious to your thoughts
Jan