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Thread: cabin heat again

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  1. #1
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Portland, OR
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    2,977

    Default Re: cabin heat again

    Dave, You could easily convert your single switch to a single 3-way switch using the same hole in the panel. My 3-way works great: center-off; down-one fan; up-two fans. Just a little rewiring.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  2. #2
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Oct 2009
    Location
    Littleton, CO
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    322

    Default Re: cabin heat again

    I have no clue yet (Turtle Build you know) as to whether it is the best way to go, but I made an airflow diverter to separate the flow of each fan to their respective footwells. I plan to put the fans on separate switches to allow pilot or passenger to turn on according to their needs. I also have a control valve to modulate water flow(with its knob just under the panel to the right of the throttle and choke). It is set forward to avoid interference with the right stick.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Mar 2009
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    Summerland BC Canada
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    411

    Default Re: cabin heat again

    Hi Gary
    Very cool looking installation. Not sure if you will benefit from the diverter or not. I also have a control valve but usually run it wide open and just flip the power switch on or off as necessary. Nice touch on yours though. Great looking work.
    Cheers
    Do

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Oct 2009
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    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Default Re: cabin heat again

    I have the Kitfox heater and have the copilot side blowing down and the pilot side blowing up for defrost. I flew with a friend in his KF IV on ski's a few winter's ago here in the Pacific NW and we never turned the heat on. My way, the wife can't complain and the windshield can be deiced if need be. Each side is on a separate switch.
    Stan Inzer
    912 ULS
    Dynon Skyview 10"
    N599KF

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Mar 2009
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    Pittsboro,NC
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    Default Re: cabin heat again

    I ordered this one after lots of looking. http://www.universalpartsinc.com/sho...750255&c=10550 At 16,000 BTU's I should be able to roast a turkey. It should be an easy install with its compact size. There's no reason these things should be so expensive, just a heater core with a fan behind it. I wish cooling was so simple. With all the Lexan over head, full acrylic doors and turtledeck, it's like a greenhouse inside if the sun's shining. Winters tend to be fairly mild in NC but when you need heat, you need it bad. I should be able to fly without a jacket this winter. I'm looking forward to trying it out.

  6. #6
    Senior Member TJay's Avatar
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    Jan 2012
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    Maurice, IA
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    Default Re: cabin heat again

    Ha roast a turkey I like that, hopefully not suck all the heat right out of your engine,

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Netherlands
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    36

    Default Re: cabin heat again

    I am working on a cabin heater for my model 4, and filosophizing a little about efficiency.
    My thought is that water always follows the way of least resistance which, mainly because of the thinner hoses to the heater core and the restriction of the ball valve, would be mainly via the belly radiator. Therefore reducing the efficency of the heater core.

    Would it be worth to install a three way ball valve in the coolant lines? This would give the possibily to divert coolant from the belly radiator to the heater core, maximizing capacity.
    Downside would be that such a ball valve is quite hefty, I have one laying around and it weighs about 3 pounds.

    Of course you would need to watch out for engine overheating with the belly radiator completely blocked, my theory is that during very cold weather a big enough heater core ( I am planning on using one originally used on one of those Thielert aircraft diese engines) this won't be too big of a problem.
    Also, these three way valves theoretically have infinite intermediate positions. Allowing coolant to flow both to the radiator and the heater core.

    So the big question is, would this extra weight and complexity be worth is? Or is my rambling mind seeing problems that really don't exist?

    I am curious to your thoughts


    Jan

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