Aww come on John, I bet you'd sell at least 10 copies just on the forum! I'll buy one, get writing, it shouldn't take too long.
Aww come on John, I bet you'd sell at least 10 copies just on the forum! I'll buy one, get writing, it shouldn't take too long.
Paul Zimmermann
LSRM-A
Garland, Texas
The manual does not list the torque for the landing gear mounting bolts. Has anyone called John and asked? This is the Conventional mounting AN6-46A with a AN365-624 nut I believe. The figure is depicting the Tricycle mounting but I believe the nut is the same just a longer bolt.
So, I referred to my sport air workshop notes. I cut the coax as I was instructed. Watching the homebuilders hints on EAA website he shows how the pin should be almost flush with the white insulator. Mine is deeper and I cant run my fingernail across it and touch it. Anybody have a different reference for cutting the RG400 type coax. This will be my third waisted pin, and unless I can purchase just the pins I have got to replace the entire connector again. My notes state Cut back the insulation 5/8 inch, leave braid 5/16 inch, White part should be 15/32 out from the insulation and the wire for the pin 5/32 inch long. My pin seems too short and I am unsure if its going to work. Any different reference material I can try?
Here is a reference sheet that should be helpful. The connectors I used were what SteinAir sold me and recommended for my RG-400. This sheet shows a different connector for that type cable, but the guy there told me that they have used them on hundreds of antenna installations with RG-400, with no problems.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
For the BNC, you will have to buy a new connector. If it is a solder on pin you may be able to re-use it. If crimp no. Looks like you already crimped the shield ferrule so the connector is already toast.
Before you cut anything - find the manufacturer and the part number and get the assembly instructions for "this specific connector".
I have been working with various RF connectors for over 30 years and there are differences. If you are a novice and do not know how to determine the proper length of cuts, the manufacturers instructions are the only way to go.
Another thing you should try is to put it all together before you crimp or solder anything. You can get an idea if things are going to line up proper.
If you have any specific questions shoot me an IM
As for the bolt torque, there are standard torques for bolts. If you know the bolt type, diameter, and thread pitch it's basically a look up.
Jeff
KF 5
340KF
Thanks John and Jeff
I found the torques for an AN6 bolt but the 3/8ths threw me. But John, your torque matches what I found. As it turns out, the pin has a shoulder that prevents it from sticking out the other end too far. I slipped the pin into the connector and found it will only go to where I have mine so Im good. Thank you two for your replies. The aircraft spruce avionics guy sold these to me for the RG-400 coax so Im satisfied I have the correct stuff.
Eddie
Hey Eddie,
I hope I'm not worrying you unnecessarily, but it appears (at least in your picture) that the pin is not fully seated. BNC connectors have standard dimensions in that regard so that they mate properly with others. It sounds like your dimensions on the stripping are close to what my connectors require, but not exactly the same. If your connectors are made by Amphenol (a well known & common brand) then the chart I posted will have the exact dimensions needed, as well as installation instructions. When you insert the pin (which has been crimped or soldered) you will feel a definite "click" as it seats. You just may not have pushed it in all the way, but since you crimped it, as it was pointed out, you'll have to start over with a new one again.
Here is a picture of one of mine - it may not be evident in the picture, but the pin does come up almost level with the end of the plastic insulator.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
No John, your not unnecessarily worrying me. I need this input if this thing is going to end without problems. Click? Hmmm, I don't seem to get that indicator. I put an empty pin into the connector and pushed down on it with a punch to see if it would seat but It just falls back out. I don't know how hard I am going to have to push if I am expecting a click. It appears your connector is of higher quality machining so I am certain mine are not the same manufacture. I have a couple more connections to make so I am going to ruin one more of these things before I just pay Aircraft Spruce to make them. Or maybe I will find a different BNC connector to purchase. I really want to do some of this wiring myself. I already have AS&S making wiring harness for me. Probably a damn good thing too.
Thanks for help.
Eddie
John is correct. The pin should come flush with the end of the teflon insulator. Your connector will likely not work or be intermittent at best. If this is on a radio transmitter you need a good solid connection or you could burn up the transmitter.
Some pins will "click" when the pin sets, some do not. Newer ones typically do. When you put the pin in does it fall through or stop? If it stops, then you should expect a click if you push hard enough. It may take a bit of a push to get it to seat.
If you just set the pin in the connector (no cable attached) the back edge of the pin should set flush to a "shelf" on the inside of the insulator. This shelf is there to allow for the diameter of the cable insulation. If the rear surface of the pin is not flush with this shelf, the pin is not seated. I think this is where your issue is.
Can you take a pic of the piece parts and post here?
Jeff
KF 5
340KF