Stabilizer Rib at 34 1/2"

[TahoeTim]

Carl,
I meant the other way with the rule. butt it lengthwise against the stab ribs that are dry and line up the elevator ones perfectly.

So here is my glue technique:

attach stab and elevator to fuselage
clamp the elevator horizontal with two long sticks so it flat
mark the locations with a sharpie
wrap the tube with painters tape approx 3/8 inch from that mark on either side leaving a tail loose so the tape could be peeled easily while the hysol is still wet
set your rib between the tapes and on the mark
trowel on the hysol with a pate knife (the bag wastes too much)
smooth the joint with your finger dipped in solvent
pull tapes and admire perfect glue lines

I rarely mixed a pot of glue specifically for ribs. I had them all prepped and used extra glue from other glue jobs. I seemed to find out that 30 oz of each was a good size batch.

I still have half a can left and only a couple of things left on the fuse.

Ok, you're probably wondering what the heck a pate knife is.

https://www.amazon.com/Norpro-5447-S...rds=pate+knife



I started with popsicle sticks and tongue depressors. These knives are the right size, the right price, and they clean up in a second. They are strong enough to stir your mix. (I had to take a heat gun to my glue to get it soft in Tahoe at 30 degrees. My set time was two days so that was a plus.)

[Cherrybark]

I'll have to admit, a pate knife looks like the perfect tool for stirring and playing with epoxy. Our mail lady is going to wear a path between Amazon and our door.

Thanks for the instruction summary. I also liked John Pitkin's idea to use a piece of cut milk jug to shield the rib while applying epoxy.

The stabilizer and elevator went on the fuselage today.

[efwd]

Keep going Carl! By the time I finish this Hawaii trip, one week of work and Two weeks on my Oshkosh Vacation with the boys you should be caught up to me and I can just read your posts and follow along as you've shed light on a couple things already that I wish I had been enlightened about. Lol
Eddie

[Cherrybark]

Eddie, I think I see your problem. You need to hurry and get old enough to retire! Then you only have yard work, house maintenance and other chores to consume your time.

[mr bill]

Retirement has not helped me much. I've been building mine for five years in my garage and it is almost done. I have become a putz.

[efwd]

lol Mr Bill
I'm falling into that rut a little bit myself. I've made some mistakes along the way and I hate that. All new rudder cables for example. Dang it. It starts feeling not so recreational sometimes so I start avoiding the project. The video Trent posted gets me fired up so I really like this site and frequent it often. Can't wait for Oshkosh. Carl, when you see the diagrams for the rudder cable install, pick one and go with it. You will note, the depicted colors on one page is opposite the colors on the next diagram. I got wrapped up trying to make sure I didn't mess that up and missed the fact that one was twisted a bit around the the other because I couldn't see it hiding behind the elevator push pull tube. I was not looking down from above it but from the side while sitting on the floor.

[mr bill]

I did my rudder cables twice also. I stepped on the pedal too hard and the swaging let go. That was actually not all bad. It caused me to go out and buy the proper swaging tool. $260 at some of the aircraft supply places, but $37 at Lowes. See you at Oshkosh, but I don't know what day, depends on weather. I live not far away, so I just drive up.

[efwd]

Hey Carl
thought I would offer you something before you pass me up. Today I fabricated my Flapperon outboard end caps from balsa wood. $20 for a three foot long 4x4 from Aircraft spruce. fortunately I can drive to pick it up. Anyhow, they were very easy. I didn't like the foam that I used on the top of the vertical tail but I have left it since its in. Thought I would try Balsa wood. I cut down the board to give me the appropriate size. I placed it against the end of the flapperon and tapped it with a malet. After cutting it out I drew a line down along the cord line to indicate where to end the sanding. I first used a dremel tool 1/2 inch wide sanding disk and gently sanded down the 1/2 inch part that slips inside the flapperon. When using the band saw dont forget to leave the material that has the impression so that the wood doesn't push all the way into the flapperon. Cut just outside the impression. I then used the belt sander and went to work just sanding away the excess material stopping along that cord line that I had marked. I tried not to ever roll the block over totally level to avoid sanding away the lip that keeps it from sliding into the end of the flapperon.I think these came out looking like I purchased them from someplace. Now I need someone to advise me on how to stiffen up Balsa Wood. I need a way to keep it from denting easily.
Eddie

[Cherrybark]

Those look very nice Eddie. Another example of how useful a band saw can be. Let's see... Father's day is gone. Birthday isn't till April. Shoot.

[Dusty]

To make balsa less succeptable to bruising try using a very thin ca glue