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Thread: First, Build a Shed

  1. #411
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    The upper and lower cowling pieces are trimmed and sanded. Using strapping tape, as instructed in the manual, worked nicely for securing the pieces in place. I may have the pieces fitting too snugly in places and might do a bit more sanding before installing the camlocks. There will necessarily be some filling and sanding where the front of the cowl pieces mate but I'm pretty happy with the fit at this point. My wife will be very happy to have this part of the project complete. Can't imagine doing this part of the build without her to help hold and tape.

    This evening I've been perusing threads, looking for ideas on the camlock installation. Months back, someone suggested creating gasket, using the high temp silicon, to seal the gaps between the firewall and boot cowl. The idea was to use plastic wrap as a release agent on the boot cowl surface. Any thoughts on the thickness of this gasket causing problems with the camlock installation?
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  2. #412
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I reviewed Tropical Tuba's pictures were he was working on his cowling. I'm almost embarrassed to admit it hadn't occurred to me that, once secured with clecos, the upper and lower cowl pieces can be worked on as a single unit off the plane. This makes the faring process much simpler. For some reason, I was thinking of working on the individual pieces - only bringing them together to check on the fit.

    There are times where these forums have really saved me from wandering off into the weeds...
    Carl Strange
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    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  3. #413
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I worked each cowl separately so don't feel alone on that rock in the middle of nowhere ... Regarding the form in place seals for the cowlings, I'm thinking of doing this on mine. I can't do anything yet as I'm laid up after a Carpal Tunnel op. but I'm planning on doing a simple test first to see what maximum thickness I can use before the cam spring bottoms out. I'm expecting to get a seal thickness of 0.040"-0.050" on average. For the seal release agent, I'm using spray-on wax that I've previously used in fibreglass work as a mold release.
    David
    SS7 Builder

  4. #414
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I used a brick of wax purchased at a craft store. I rubbed it all over the under side of the fiberglass edge, then used the heat gun to melt it down to get good spread. I then laid down a bead of high temp silicone from the tube and then installed the boot cowl and fastened it down. I can't speak to how this works but I figure I am going to remove the boot cowl at my annual because I have some wiring I wan't to add and some trouble shooting to do on my connection between my Vertical Power unit and the G3X touch. It could be a mess or it may be sweet, we will see.
    Eddie Forward
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  5. #415
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Even more rounds of the cowling on and off routine before I drilled the pilot holes for the camlocks. Started at the top center of the firewall. Of course, I cringed every time the bit punched through the firewall metal - reminding myself that I had checked and double checked that nothing expensive was in the the way of the holes.

    The second and third pictures show the attached cowling pieces sitting on the garage floor ready for cleanup and faring. The pilot side will be pretty simple but I'm not sure how to best correct the gap on the passenger side. I don't want to cut away the nice curve on the upper cowling piece so the job will be to build up the lower cowling shape. The faring "blob" will be about 1/4" at its thickest. Poly-Fiber Super Fil is a pleasure to work with but I'm not sure about using it to build up this thickness. West System epoxy mixed with their Microlight Filler makes a great faring compound and is very strong. I have both sitting on the shelf and will probably use the West.
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    Carl Strange
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  6. #416
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    The camloc install step says to read a section in the "Notes to Builder". My document covers an older style of camlocs than these that came with the kit. I'll bet those tiny pins aren't to be messed with until the final install. Can someone point me to a document or give a quick run down on these jewels?
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    Carl Strange
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    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  7. #417
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I found a video on them but can’t recall where it’s at. For just FYI the are made by skybolt. I ordered some some new studs from skybolt directly to have a butterfly instead of a Phillips for the oil access door. I am going to also change out the turtle deck ones. There is a washer for the studs that you install at final assembly. The receptacles you are correct don’t pull the pin out until the depth of the camlocs are set. You can adjust the depth in and out. Once all the camlocs are installed I went through and adjusted the depths then pulled the pin. Makes it easier to install and remove cowl. You can put them back in but kind of a pain. I lost count at about 100 of how many times I installed and removed my cowl.🙂 not really but it had to be close
    Dustin Dickerson

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  8. #418
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I'll look for that video Dustin. Replacing the Phillips with Butterflies on the oil access door sounded like a great idea. Then I read Eddie's comment about using a fuel sampler that had a screwdriver blade on another thread.
    Last edited by Cherrybark; 08-03-2019 at 04:58 AM.
    Carl Strange
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  9. #419
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Flip those connectors over. Notice that on the opposite side there is a little notch extending out from the center and into the flange. I notched the hole on the fiberglass and Stainless firewall to accommodate the notch. Now I can use a scribe or narrow pick, insert it from the outside to lift the locking spring, turn the barrel with a screwdriver, pull the pick and it locks back down.
    Eddie Forward
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    SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X

  10. #420
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I played with a pair over morning coffee. The adjustment and locking mechanism quickly made sense. Very clever of you to make them adjustable when mounted.

    Keep posting flying pictures. They are inspirational and it's great to see you having such a good time. Decided on your next project yet?
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

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