The suggested guideline is to move the control stick forward in unison and almost the same range as the flap handle when reducing flaps. It's time to read the, "How to Fly a Kitfox" book that's been sitting on the shelf for a few months.
The suggested guideline is to move the control stick forward in unison and almost the same range as the flap handle when reducing flaps. It's time to read the, "How to Fly a Kitfox" book that's been sitting on the shelf for a few months.
Carl Strange
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X
Did I miss a step in the build? It was interesting to walkaround a factory built Kitfox. Of course, everything look familiar but I'm jealous of the nice tight join at the wing tips. One detail that I noticed was aluminum trim pieces that close the gap above the door frame. I've flipped through the online build manual but don't see where this part is installed and I haven't done it on my project. Am I missing something or is this a factory special?
Carl Strange
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X
If I remember right, KF sells them in the catalog. I forget if the instructions mention them as an option.
Referring to the butt rib closeouts? attempted to post a link below
https://teamkitfox.com/Forums/thread...-Rib-Close-Out
Flying SS7, G3X, 912iS
https://mountainfoxbuild.wordpress.com/
I bought them from the factory however, on my first KF I remember that I made my own from a heavy (0.0050 thick) plastic sheet. Buying from the factory you get a pretty nice fit but they're a little pricey. You could make your own with some 0.0016 or 0.0020 aluminum sheet if you have it lying around.
EAA, AOPA
KF5 (N49FK & N36KJ)
Phoenix, AZ
Nice to learn I didn't just miss these. That thread has some nice ideas and "do it yourself" suggestions. I'll ignore these for now and hope they come to mind when the temps start to drop in the Fall.
Carl Strange
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X
You wouldn't believe the number of consecutive rainy, overcast days we've had here in East Texas. It's just been amazing. Finally, on Memorial, day we got a break with light winds and an overcast layer around 3-4,000. Not the clear skies of my dreams but suitable for a first flight. Took my time going over the flight plan, taping a 3 x 5 reminder of flight speeds, rolling the plane out of the hanger and doing a pre-flight. Normal startup and the 912iS oil temp rose much quicker with full cowlings in place. I won't drag the story out, there were minor problems and the flight never left the ground. Summary:
Brakes too weak to hold plane during run-up. Tried taxing to see if brakes could turn the plane. Right brake was a maybe - left brake was definitely not engaging. Back home, I wondered if the tops of the brake pedals were touching the firewall since they were fully extended. More likely, I still have a bit of air in the brake lines. Happily, there are no puddles of brake fluid on the hanger floor so this isn't going to be too tough of a problem.
Managed to taxi straight ahead to a helipad that is convenient for runups and has enough clear area to try some taxi turns. Could kick the tail around with prop wash against the rudder but gentle taxi turns weren't working. An friend was watching the big event. He noticed both tailwheel springs had separated from their chains and were hanging loose. I had not been sure how tight to make the tailwheel spring connection and left them fairly loose. That would work with a spring design that captures the chain. Our "open ended" springs need enough tension to stay secure. As I taxied back to the hanger, my friend walked along with the tail and provided steering.
Finally, on the way back to the hanger, the Lane A light started blinking. Tried recycling but the steady blink returned. Didn't have a sim card in place to capture the logged data and was too frazzled to remember how to find the display page that would show the warning message.
Spent an hour reconnecting the tailwheel springs with some tension. Decided the brakes and engine warning light were more than I wanted to deal with so gave up for the day. This morning we have pre-dawn drizzle and rainy days in the forecast for the week. Probably not a good first flight day in the near future but I have time to correct the brake and engine problem.
This is the first time I'd run the engine with cowlings and turtle deck in place. The turtle deck makes a constant rattling noise that, I assume, is coming from the gap were the turtle deck joins the windshield. I assume positive cockpit pressure in flight will stop the rattle but how do you dampen things on the ground?
Carl Strange
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X
You are probably right that there is still air in the brakes. I remember mine were a pain to bleed. The pedals should be firm and require equal pressure.
Be patient and wait for a day with really nice weather. In the mean time take care of these discrepancies, you don't want to fly it unless everything is working properly. Make sure you have good steering on the ground, you don't want any surprises on your first landings.
Phil Nelson
A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
Flying since 2016
Sounds so familiar Carl. If you recall, Lane A light was my issue back then as well. And, I threw the tailwheel springs twice, maybe three times. Twice I had to retrieve the spring from the runway. Not the smoothest thing at a towered airport. Slack required on the ABW tailwheel, while tension is required on the Matco tailwheel. Those were fun days as I recall. I think you got your engine sometime around when I did, I may be wrong. Do you have the Stainless steel clips holding the sensors tight to the airbox on top of the engine? You should have two of them.
Eddie Forward
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Garmin G3X
Yep, mine are Matco and the springs are now tight. Also, embarrassingly, I noticed the very clean grease fitting that will soon get a shot of lube. I'll check for those clips holding the sensors. No clue from memory.
I need to rewatch the video on Garmin and Rotax error codes, then run the engine and see what the reported problem is.
Carl Strange
Flying
SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X
On your Matco Tailwheel.....I had an interesting conversation with the Owner at Matco (can't think of his name). He said that the grease zerk is really not to be used for lubrication, which I found odd. He said its basically there for a quick, small shot of grease if the tailwheel gets bound or submerged, which again, I thought was odd but it sounded more like to use it as a stop gap situation with disassembly and a light coat a grease as the proper method of lubrication.
I routinely used a grease gun on mine and it developed a pretty bad, consistent shimmy on landing. When I called Matco, I learned the above info so I cleaned off the excess grease, as well as well as went through the pre-load procedure described on the instructions and it worked correctly and immediately the shimmy went away.