Seat installation

[Maverick]

No. Maybe this will help explain what I am trying to say. I put the hooks centered off of the control stick. I re-read my previous post and now see that I was confusing. When I said the back end, I meant the back end of the J-hook. Sorry for the confusion.
20201218_163704[1].jpg

[RV6flyer]

No. Maybe this will help explain what I am trying to say. I put the hooks centered off of the control stick. I re-read my previous post and now see that I was confusing. When I said the back end, I meant the back end of the J-hook. Sorry for the confusion.
20201218_163704[1].jpg

Thanks, I do not have the tool box. Just order them by the way.

Allan

[n85ae]

There needs to be a forum FAQ, with links to "seat install", "fuel tank kreem", "spar sloshing", and
"uneven fuel flow from tanks".

I reinforced my seat, put a block next to the control to keep the seat off it, and use 1/2" wide zip ties

Jeff

[airlina]

As Jeff says this has been an issue for a long time . Back in the late 90's when I was building my Series 5 , I was shocked by the fact that the Skystar manual called for zip ties to hold the seat pan in place. thought to myself ....... self this won't do , dumb idea , so I decided to upgrade the attach points to SS wormdrive hose clamps with a rubber wrap . Also added another layer of fiberglass at the attach point areas, and for triple redundancy , belt type straps under the seatpan . There were a few accidents way back when that were linked to the seat falling on the controls (one I recall was a hard landing , seatpan fell into controls ,airplane bounced , resulting in a loss of control and wrecked airplane ) The green doohicky in the photo is just a rubber cap to keep the SS clamp screw head from abrading my control stick upholstery.Bruce N199CL

[desertdave]

The seat pan on my Model 6 was trimmed up a bit to much and on 2 occasions (200 Lbs me and a 210 Lbs buddy) the zip ties snapped on landing. Here is how I permanently fixed the situation:
1/16" aluminum flat
Hysol or epoxy
Cable clamps
Rivnuts

For the front I used a rubber mallet and matched the curve with the bullnose edge of my workbench and glues it in place. You can see a previous repair from the first time the zip ties failed and the pan developed a slight crack.
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For the top curves I used a deep socked to make this radius and again glued them in place.
IMG_0988.jpg

I probably didn't need to make them this long but I had the material and figured more glued surface would be stronger than less.
IMG_0987.jpg

Here is a demo that I made for a friend to show how the rivnut would be used. I used a step drill to slightly enlarge the clamp hole. I then slipped the clam on the airframe cross pieces and then pulled the rivnut. I also trimmed the rubber after it was in place so the seatpan fit snugly.
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Thats what the finished product looks like once installed. Much stronger than using zip ties and to pull the seat pan out it is just a matter of pulling 8 screws.
IMG_0006.jpg

[RV6flyer]

Did you do this just on the back?

[desertdave]

The first photo is the front lip reinforcement. Four anchor points on the front and four on the back.

[RV6flyer]

The first photo is the front lip reinforcement. Four anchor points on the front and four on the back.

Thanks for this. I just cut the slots for hose clamps but I sure like your method better. I have a riv-nut set but I think they are aluminum. Have to see if I can use steel ones with my squeezer.

Allan

[Eric Page]

Very nice solution, Dave. My seat pan was... I'll be charitable and say, "mishandled"... by the first builder, so it's in need of fiberglass repairs already. Your method of securing it looks like a good way to go once that's done.

[rv9ralph]

There may be another option, possibly easier.

Use the aluminum straps to make a loop, like an adel clamp, around the bottom truss bar, in 4 locations like on the current SS7. Close the tab with the rivets holding a nut plate to the tab.

Same on the top bar in 2 locations as is used on the current SS7.

One problem with the long tab is that the bonding agent may let loose due to flexing of the seat pan.

I would use screws through the seat pan with the largest pan head available, possible with a fender type washer.

Ralph
just my $.02