Had considered the turnbuckles, but figured that added a layer of complexity and might invoke the Law of Unintended Consequences. May get to that in future; would make tuning simpler.
Had considered the turnbuckles, but figured that added a layer of complexity and might invoke the Law of Unintended Consequences. May get to that in future; would make tuning simpler.
I did mine a week ago so it was still fresh. The turnbuckle was an way to save the old cable but if you are swapping it out anyway, follow the factory design.
good luck and grab a couple of the little cable clamps to help you.
http://www.zoro.com/dayton-wire-rope....ds#imagePopUp
Finally found the discussion on page 8 of general discussions about swaging rudder cables, from 2011; immensely helpful, and now feel much more confident about getting this done.
My rudder cables were swedged with what looks like maybe a pair of vice grips. I intend to put in new swedges and turnbuckles also as suggested here. You have never lived until you have had a rudder cable swedge pull loose on landing ..............
Chuck Gruby
Petal, Kit Fox III Flying
Having a swaged rudder cable loosen at ANY time is the very thrill I'm hoping to avoid.
Getting used to visiting the hangar but not flying. Thimbles, recommended by John McBean instead of teardrop eyelets, expected to arrive tomorrow, and then let the swaging begin. In the meantime I've built version five of my modified rudder stops, and expect them to be installed today. Think I've got the right solution but am learning that "simple" modifications are anything but.
Really learned a lot by reading the entire "tips and tricks" thread; now working my way through many others. This site is a wonderful resource.
Get the whole swaging kit from Spruce. tool, cutters, go/no-go gauge.
Also, the three swages go in a certain order; center first, closest to end next, then third toward cable. I have the big crimp tool and the little hand held tool and I seem to use the hand held one more.