Ross,
On my gear I etched, alodined, used epoxy primer and then finished with a urethane paint.
FYI we have had powder coating crack & chip on the gear legs of a Cessna 206 where I work. Powder coating is not very flexible.
Ross,
On my gear I etched, alodined, used epoxy primer and then finished with a urethane paint.
FYI we have had powder coating crack & chip on the gear legs of a Cessna 206 where I work. Powder coating is not very flexible.
Phil Nelson
A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
Flying since 2016
My gear is 5 years old, no cracks at my last inspection!
Paul Zimmermann
LSRM-A
Garland, Texas
In reply to rossir, I was caught in a micoburst when landing at my home airport. All of a sudden I saw concrete out of my side window, followed by blue sky, then concrete, blue sky, etc, and dropped in from about 20-25 feet above the runway. The Grove gear I believe saved my life AND my aircraft. No structural damage other than the bent gear. The guys in the control tower thought I was a "has-been!" Followup to removing the powder coating--Grove removed it for a reasonable fee before they straightened it. Straightened gear is polished aluminum--no more powder coating or paint for me!
Stan Specht
Lakewood, Colorado
Model IV Speedster
Rotax 912 UL, 2200+ hours and still ticking!!
Glad you walked away ok Stan - well done to recover it - sort of anyway! I guess you would have been rather pleased to only have bent gear!?
cheers
r
Ross
Mt Beauty, Vic
OZ
Sold to Richard and Scott Taubman in OZ, 2019. Kitfox SS7,Rotax 912is Sport, Airmaster CSP 75" blades.
Landcruiser and Cub off road camper (doesn't get any kudos on this forum!)
Stan,
Glad to hear you are ok. I've got the Powder coat gears, but I would much prefer to have the Polished Aluminum. I think it looks much better.
If you want to strip your Powder Coat, I've tried sandblasting, an paint Remover to no avail. I heard Permatex Gasket Remover works well, so I searched for a thread on it. Go look at this link.
http://www.choppersurplus.com/global...ercoating.html
Paul Z
Last edited by Paul Z; 04-07-2015 at 07:34 AM.
Paul Zimmermann
LSRM-A
Garland, Texas
I've been observing the comments so far and just wonder how the various finishes have held up over the years in the hot, humid, maybe salty parts of the country. Also wonder how anything finish other than the bare metal holds up to the flexing in/around the mounting blocks.
- Gary
S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
Alodine is great stuff, but leaves a super thin coat. I would not use it anywhere that could be exposed to rubbing or scratching.
Roger
Well, based upon input from Grove and Kitfoxers, I have primed/painted only the "inaccessible" portions of the gear and mounting blocks leaving the saddle portion unfinished. Plan to annually spray some Corrosion-X into that area. I polished the outer legs. We'll see how it all works out maintenance wise over time, but I think it looks pretty good now.
- Gary
S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
With several options available for corrosion protection it seems it comes down to personal preference on appearance vs. elbow grease.
1. Polishing - easiest to inspect Hard to buff out initially. Redo is not as hard. Looks great when first polished. Fades and fogs slowly over time if kept up with a coat of wax. Easily refinished. Can be done at home.
2. Powder coat - slick and durable. Cracks can hide underneath. Very difficult to remove for refinishing. Must go to a shop with a large oven.
3. Anodizing - easy to inspect. Durable finish lasts a long time but will slowly fade Wipe clean with a damp rag. Must go to a plating shop for buffing and treatment.
4. Paint - cheap. Can be done at home. Not difficult to strip chemically for refinishing. Can hide cracks or corrosion. Can match color of plane. Can mimick color of other treatments.
5. Chrome - never recommended for aluminum spring gear. Can cause granular corrosion.
6. Nothing - just sand or rub with a 3M pad once in a while and wax it less is more for some.
Whatever floats the boat, eh?
Thanks John, that is good information.
Regarding powder coating . . . here is one of my lift struts, which is made of steel not aluminum. I noticed some filiform type corrosion under the powder coating last week as I was considering painting them white.
The point I want to bring up here is that powder coating isn't impervious to corrosion. This plane is a 1999 model and spent the first 14 years of its life in Salt Lake City and near the Pacific ocean with the original owner. I'm not sure if this was due to poor preparation, thin powder coating, nicks, etc. but there is some serious corrosion under the powder coating. It didn't look too bad until I stripped off the powder coating.
I need to take care of this and will clean up the corrosion and paint them with epoxy primer and Aerothane which i going to hold up much better than powder coating.
Phil Nelson
A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
Flying since 2016