Hi,
has anyone tried to fix the doorwindows using rivnuts and screws rather than rivets.
I'm concerned with getting the rivnuts installed in the round doorframe metal.
Thanks for the Help,
Tuna
Hi,
has anyone tried to fix the doorwindows using rivnuts and screws rather than rivets.
I'm concerned with getting the rivnuts installed in the round doorframe metal.
Thanks for the Help,
Tuna
I used these sheet metal screws with rubber/metal washers similar to the screws for galvanized roofing. I'm not particularly pleased with the appearance but seems functional. also the tape/gasket was used, I can't remember the name of the product but seems like it was 3M and available at auto parts store. (expensive)
You just screw them into the holes in the doorframe?
Or is there any thread on the frameside?
I used 6-32 screws long enough to go through the frame with acorn nuts on the inside.
When I replaced my door windows I used rivnuts. They worked great.
Steve Wilson
Huntsville, UT
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I used zip ties. Drilled a hole through the lexan on each side of the tubing. Buy the colored zip ties if you want them to match.
I am planning on using black aluminum pop rivets. If I need to replace the lexan, they drill out easy.
I also used pop rivets. I found aluminum rivets pre-finished in black. I also chose to go with the Lexan as a weight saving decision. One thing I did a bit differently was to search out some aluminum H channel on line. I found some 1" wide channel with a 1/8" throat. Carefully bending it to shape, it replaced the fiberglass strap between upper and lower Lexan. (Drop a note if you want to try this as bending the channel takes some care.) I had the strap on my first Model IV and never liked the way it looked or fit. Once the channel was fitted to the frame and clecoed in place, it required some careful trimming of the mating edges of the upper and lower Lexan sheets, but I really like the look. The door frame is black so with the aluminum channel and pop rivets both in black, I almost get the acrylic bubble door look.