Pual Step by Step what is your procedure for replacing the oil. Thinking it's time to replace mine.
Norm
Pual Step by Step what is your procedure for replacing the oil. Thinking it's time to replace mine.
Norm
From the Rotax Maintenance Manual-
"Renewing of the rotary valve lubrication oil (582 UL DCDI /mod. 99 only) Drain oil completely. For complete emptying, the engine must be inclined.
Afterwards refill the oil tank. Allow some time for settling. Crank the engine by hand several times to vent the system.
Fill tank to max. mark and after a short trial run verify the oil level again."
I loosen one of the hoses at the engine and bleed out the oil, refilling the reservoir as I go to try to avoid allowing air into the system. It might make sense to bleed from each side but I usually don't do that.
-- Paul S
Model III SN910
582 IVO Med
Thanks for the info. Looking at changing oil to synthetic and curious about the way you do a change. because of the change of oil type I may have to drain complete and then refill.
Norm
BTW for beeryboats
Make sure you do a 8 min warmup every time you start up. If you don't you risk a cold seizure. Even after a flight if you shut down for 10 or 15 minutes do a 5 to 8 minute warmup again. It is a matter of trying to make sure that the crank and case match the temp of the pistons. As well you want the water to match temps in rad and engine. The 8 minute warm up is one of the most important rules for running a 582. The other important rule for greyheads is using Silicate free antifreeze. (orange stuff) Good Luck. I have about 500 hrs behind 582s now but have had a couple of motor outs by not following my own rules.
+1 on the warm up. I don't fly until it hits at least 150 water temp and usually I wait until I see the thermostat open (temp increases and then you see it fall by at least 10 deg). By the way, install a thermostat if yours doesn't have one, again to prevent cold seizures.
-- Paul S
Model III SN910
582 IVO Med
Thanks for the warm-up tips. Now that I've been in the diesel turbo business for a few years I've learned all about warm up and cool down periods. Not to be sexist, but most turbo cars burn their turbos up by women that do door to door errands and never let the turbo cool down before shutting off the engine which turns off the oil supply.
I spent hours last night removing and tagging parts off the engine. What a mess compared to a four stroke "aircraft" engine. I basically removed the fuel and water systems. I have not touched the ignition system yet. Still trying to figure out how to un-hook it from the airframe. I assume it will go to the engine shop for O/H with the engine? And I have a handful of cables that control the carbs that need sorted out.
I am in the process of building a kitfox with a 582.
Paul,I like your idea of a thermostat.
Where do I find the parts needed to install one?
I used an OMC boat 160 deg thermostat (Sierra # 18-3558) which only costs around $15. I drilled about a #40 weep hole and oriented near the top when installing to allow purging the air out of the system.
The required gasket is the spendy part. I didn't find an alternative to the rotax part. I believe it's Rotax PN 230 800 which goes for close to $30.
-- Paul S
Model III SN910
582 IVO Med