I too unlace them to remove the seats. They are a little stiff but no real problems. I angle the belt end , so you are getting a corner started , once started they seem to come thru easy.
I too unlace them to remove the seats. They are a little stiff but no real problems. I angle the belt end , so you are getting a corner started , once started they seem to come thru easy.
Kevin,
Kitfox Outback
912 ULS
Airmaster AP332CTFH-WWR70W
Summit Aircraft Wheel Skis
C-FOXW
All well and good until the first time you try a Lomcevak in your Kitfox, and your
buckles slip to the ends of the straps. Then the hot glue you bought for your
glue gun, which was just the general purpose and not the heavy duty variety ...
let's loose and you end up hanging through the the sunroof like Wiley Coyote
grasping for dear life the last remaining strap with one hand, and and your
headset cord with the other wishing that you hadn't cut the threads out of
those "intentionally oversize" rolled up ends.
I offered to re-sew Bruce's in a private email for free, but he declined and says
he has complete faith in hot glue gun glue.
Jeff
Not that I am relying on my glue , but my point is if the seatbelt straps have slipped to the point that they are all the way to the ends of the belt , they are doing you no good anyway. Bruce
I was thinking of a hole melted through the rolled up end with a 10-32 bolt through it myself. Or, enlarge the slot in the center of the seat pan so you can get one belt at a time through the slot. The larger slot seems like an easier solution to me.
Jay
You're right, if they slip that far you have much bigger problems anyway.
I've really never had difficulty to get the bolts out, so it never really
occurred to me to try anything else. Having a ten year old son with small
fingers makes it a lot easier also.
Regards,
Jeff
I was thinking of a thin section of Teflon or nylon glued to the skin. Or a piece of light ply from my model airplane scrap box. I'm still pondering my adhesive choice.