Just how critical are the wing to fuselage gap seals? I don't have much of a setup there, have been taping over the gap.
Thanks,
larry
Just how critical are the wing to fuselage gap seals? I don't have much of a setup there, have been taping over the gap.
Thanks,
larry
Never did mine though I think about it sometimes
Dorsal ~~^~~
Series 7 - Tri-Gear
912 ULS Warp Drive
Are you talking about the gap between the #1 rib and the butt rib? I read an article once about wing root fairings. Definitely not the issue, but if the junction between the wing and fuselage on a high performance low wing is left a sharp 90° it creates significant drag. I mention this because the Lancair IV I helped with is faired nicely, but since the wings are removable, there is about a 1/8" gap between wing root and wing. The owner tapes over the gap with vinyl tape - we're talking 200 kts. Since in both instances we are talking about the top of the wing - the most critical wing surface, I would suspect if there is a gap, it would produce some drag as the low pressure on top of the wing sucks cabin air out disturbing the airflow.
With the original style Lexan windshield, the plastic can be cut to overlap the gap. That is what I did.
The original Whitman designs have nothing but square corners and they put the fast glass to shame often...
I saw a local Tailwind absolutely embarrass another local retractable Lancair. Both with o320 150 hp motors.
I overlapped the acrylic windshield/skylight just enough to seal the gap. Very easy to do.
I wish someone would come up with an EASY, GOOD LOOKING, EFFECTIVE gap seal for the elevator to horizontal stabilizer.
Jim
I did exactly that. Definitely NOT EASY, but the looks seem OK and I have no problem three pointing. Two out of three is not bad. I must say though, the rudder and vertical is much easier given the room created by the rod end hinge. You can see what needs to be done with the smaller radius created by the tube hinges.
One ply fiberglass shapes with foam ribs for light weight.
Elev Gap seal 1.jpg
Not quite closed at max deflection down or up. Note fillet fairing between horizontal and vertical stabilizer surfaces.
Elev Gap Seal 2.jpg
Desert Fox Fly-in
Kitfox Touch.jpg
just take some tape and put the stickside against each though the lenth that you are going to use. leave about 1/4 inch on each side. now put it through the opening, seal it on top on one surface and than put to the other sealing surface and seal it down. kind of hard to explain. but u end up with sticking on the horizonal on the top side and sticking to the elevator on the bottom side. I use packaging tape clear and than paint with spray white afterward. I suppose you can look for tape that's close to your color and do the same. one more thing, put the elevator in one of it's throws so it doesn't bind when done.
If your going to use tape, full down elevator, put tape on top, the full elevator up, put tape on bottom doing this the 2 tape strips wont meet in the middle unless you cut lengths to go between hinges and actually push it down with a paint stick or something similar
Chase
Model 5 OutBack
912 UL
The last time I put tape on my elevator to gap seal, I found Duct brand has a clear tape, which I used. It is a heavier tape than packing tape and has been on my plane for over 3 years so far. I found it in the aviation department of Home Depot.
Steve Wilson
Huntsville, UT
Kitfox 85DD
912A / 3 Blade Taper Tip Warp Drive
Convertible Nosewheel & Tailwheel
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if you use the packaging tape there is bad and good. I use the scotch brand.