Thanks Tom:
Here is mine, looks a bit worse than yours.
Thanks Tom:
Here is mine, looks a bit worse than yours.
Kevin,,no my wind screen is clear .090 , I'm using the .060 bronze over head, the short section behind windscreen and turtle deck,..doors..side windows .
I'd probably have it done by now but just had to dump $20K in a new HVAC system,..so maybe next week
Chase
Model 5 OutBack
912 UL
Lsaupe, it looks like ,most of the cracks in your windshield start at the cut edge. The edge looks to be the raw saw cut. It should be rounded and smoothed as much as you can. I started with a file, then 120 grit sand paper and finished with 400 wet and dry using water with it.
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
I need advice on my lexan windshield which is the preformed version.
I screwed up and cracked it near the wing root area. What are the best options? I stop drilled it but am worried the stress will eventually crack it further. Should I try it as is stop drilled or cut out the piece that is cracked. The wing root fairing would cover if I cut the cracked piece out.
Thanks
If the windshield is preformed it is acrylic, not polycarbonate. Mine also cracked and not wanting to spend another $600 plus shipping, I repaired it with crazy glue, after priming with Loctite 770 plastic primer and a patch on the inside surface. I have not yet finished the outside surface. Structurally very strong.
For repairing cracks with a stop-drill hole or just holes mistakenly drilled in the wrong locations, bonding a doubler is an acceptable repair- AC43.13 will tell you how much radius the doubler should cover around the crack/hole (something like 1" or 1 1/4," best look it up). Weld-On #4 adhesive is perfect for the job, but if you want to save money (hazmat and shipping charges) then generic contact cement/crazy glue is strong enough and legal (you're building an experimental). The main problem with contact cement it is it dries milky.
I did, I used macrolon, claer and did a cold bend.
Turtle deck is still the old one, but if anyone did one from lexan, i would like to know how.
Greets
Tuna
Hi...i insatall my windshield from LP...after what i see on the forum...i dont want force anything...so at first for me it is impossible to are flush on both side door post...because like that i need to force each side (1" each side) to put the 8 clecos..so if i push to the tail everything on door post are better,,,i said better beacuse i need 3/4" again...so i put two washer from screw for steel roof..they have rubber on one side...so with some pressure i can cleco each top bracket..
But everything are cleco now...when i put my first part of the cowling (winshield side) the curve of my window are not very nice..( maybe 10 years of sitting on the floor)
So i try ,after taking some info..to heat the lexan with Iron at hi temp..to curve some scrap lexan..with an part of tissu on iron ( i dont want to scratch me winshield)and it work
So i try on windshield slowly...beforee i put a kind mastercraft big vise grip with rubber ..i put that vise on center of windshield and i push and hold the windshield about 2.5"and i heat it with my iron...now it is not perfect ..but mucho better...
Jf
I believe the LP aero windshields are made of Acrylic.
Kevin,
Kitfox Outback
912 ULS
Airmaster AP332CTFH-WWR70W
Summit Aircraft Wheel Skis
C-FOXW
I dont know if anyone touched base on this but you can cold bend lexan in a break, for making a turtle deck out of lexan alone, it can not be M-5 or M-10 lexan it has to be standard lexan it can be tinted, best to use a Die break over a box or finger break unless you have one where you can adjust for thickness, add 20% of the thickness on an adjustable finger/box break from the leading edge of fingers to the edge of lower plate edge
On a die break use a .03 radius edged knife or 30• degree die, dont use a 90• degree die, you need to go past 90•degrees during bending procedure, if you have some scrap left over after cuttting blank do a practice bend on scrap
Chase
Model 5 OutBack
912 UL