Parking brake valve mounting ideas

[dholly]

Hey all,

I see Matco now produces the original PV-1 valve (90*degree flow turn in the valve body) plus a newer PV-D valve (linear flow through valve body). The new in/outlet fitting orientation and more compact size would seem to offer additional creative mounting possibilities.

I am interested in seeing pics from those who have mounted either of the Matco parking brake valves, but especially KF4 owners w/ a dual brake system (MC-4a's w/ remote reservoir) and NO console (I prefer the foot room). Ie., valve on the forward seat truss or side longerons under the door latch perhaps?

Thanks for playing!

[avidflyer]

Not sure if this is the type of valve you are talking about, but here is what I did on my Kitfox 4. Just looked at some of the build pics, and I've got to somehow find time to get back to work on it. It's almost been 2 years since I did anything on it. Was wireing the engine and instruments then. Sometimes life can get real busy, even when you are retired! Take care, Jim Chuk

PS I think I have the bungees hooked wrong in the first pic. ??? how did that happen

[War Eagle]

I don't have a series IV but I did install the matco parking brake valve on my Series 7. I have a couple of pictures of how I did it and if they are helpful in generating something that will work on your Series IV then I am happy to contribute.

I installed the matco valve on the underside of an aluminum plate that I installed behind the panel on the pilots side. I used this plate as a base to install other things on the top side. While you can't see the valve directly (because it is installed underneath this plate) you can see the bolts that hold it in place and you can see the valve handle protruding through the top of the plate. This first picture shows how I was playing with a manual throttle cable to operate the valve.

The second picture shows how I ended up connecting the manual throttle cable end to the valve handle with a swivel type cable clamp (similar to what is used on the throttle cables that connect to the carburetor linkage).

The last picture shows the "T" handle underneath the keyed ignition switch. This picture is before everything was labeled, you pull the "T" handle out to set the brake and push it in to release the brake.

I have had no trouble with this setup.

[dholly]

Hi Jim, that looks like the original PV-1 valve. I am concerned with the center line routing without a console or conduit for protection from passenger feet etc. My brake lines currently run from front to back behind the kick panel carpet along the underside of the pilot side door. The new, in-line flow valve allows a fresh opportunity to mount a valve somewhere in the circuit there. Not sure what the odds of inadvertently flipping the lever there are, but it seems out of the way enough so as not to be a big concern.

With that in mind, War Eagle has opened up a whole new line of thinking with pics of his 'remote' valve and cable actuator. I hadn't even thought of this, thanks! One issue with an under panel location I see is that the remote brake reservoir must be the high spot in the system and there is not quite as much room in the model 4 as 7 to stuff everything up there. Alternatively, I can see a valve mounted under the seat with a bowden cable and pull handle coming through the forward seat truss. Handy location and no chance of pilot or passenger snagging it.

Thanks to both for sharing your pics, it's been very helpful. I hope others will add their ideas as well.

[HighWing]

My first Model was a bit on the heavy side so this time, I have sort of gone bare bones to get a bit more spritely feel. With that in mind, this is my Parking Brake location. For me it works as I can easily reach it. It is not in an area where I might kick it during flight and it conforms with the typical push forward to go and pull back to stop. With the first airplane, actually NEEDED a parking brake only once in 900 hours, but it convinced me.
Lowell

[dholly]

Well since I started the thread I figured I better come back and add pics of my ultimate solution. Still need to re-glue my kick panel carpet and add labels but the parking brake works great, wonder how I ever got along without it. Locating it where I did allows me to easily push the pilot side toe brakes on with one hand when standing outside the aircraft and engage the parking brake with the other. I also found that with the brake locked on, I can stand on the tire with my left foot without moving the plane and enter the cabin right foot first over the control stick when pushed forward and to the left. Much easier than sliding in butt first, particularly for those with short legs and big tires. The door latch tab doesn't seem to be quite as big a factor with this ingress procedure as well. The handle knob is pointed down and tucks away neatly when in the full on/off positions, no worries about catching a pant leg or inadvertent operation. Thanks again for the ideas.

[mr bill]

Your brake line appears to be very flexible, what kind is it and where can I buy it? Thank you

[dholly]

Your brake line appears to be very flexible, what kind is it and where can I buy it? Thank you

@Mr. Bill,

Parker Parflex Nylon Tubing, High Strength, Semi-Rigid, Inside Dia .180 In, Outside Dia 1/4 In, Wall Thickness .035 In, Temp Range -60 To 200 F, Max Pressure 425 PSI, Burst Pressure 1700 PSI, Vacuum Rating 28 Inches Hg, ~$0.50/ft @Grainger.com. Item #2VKT9. Much more rigid than the oem line, but will form and hold fairly tight bends with a bit of heat.

[mr bill]

Thank you, so heat will help with bending.

[dholly]

@ Mr Bill

To get the bend radius shown in my install, heating the line was required. Normally I would have routed the lines out of the valve straight back along the side longeron like Grover, then made a wide, lazy turn back forward to the spring gear fittings... but I was using what line on hand at the time and the goal was to git 'er done.