I think I may have just had a brainstorm. What about bonding the comprression ring to the fuel tube with JB Weld? When cured, it is fuel proof!
I think I may have just had a brainstorm. What about bonding the comprression ring to the fuel tube with JB Weld? When cured, it is fuel proof!
Steve Wilson
Huntsville, UT
Kitfox 85DD
912A / 3 Blade Taper Tip Warp Drive
Convertible Nosewheel & Tailwheel
SkySteve's SPOT Page
SkySteve's You Tube Videos
Hi Steve. I'd like to offer a few ideas. I don't use the standard slotted hose clamps. I use the smooth hose clamps from McMaster-Carr co. You can get stainless or Galv.steel. Another thing I use is 'Barricade' fuel hose from N.A.P.A. It has many layers within the hose, one of which is a vapor barrier and will not let vapors through the line. I use an aluminum header tank with aluminum fuel line from it to the firewall using AN fittings. There is electrical tape that 'welds' itself together that I always carry. I blew a radiator hose in my car many years ago. I wrapped it with this tape and filled the radiator. It got me home until the next day when I could change the hose. The 'barbed' fuel fittings are a good point as detailed above. Hope this helps, Tom, (Lion8)
Tom,
Thanks for your input. I have changed the fuel lines to E-proof lines. I will also be changing the ring clamps to the fuel type several have mentioned here. If the JB Weld idea works, I am thinking the clamp should be placed around the compression ring.
Steve Wilson
Huntsville, UT
Kitfox 85DD
912A / 3 Blade Taper Tip Warp Drive
Convertible Nosewheel & Tailwheel
SkySteve's SPOT Page
SkySteve's You Tube Videos
One more idea if there is room. Add a compression nut, do a double flare on the copper go from flare to barb, no torch needed.
Pro Seal Type sealant from ACS
It is fuel proof and stays flexible.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...prosealant.php
It's about 20 bucks for 2 oz.
Or if you want the real thing, Same as used to seal Mooney and Cardinal wet wings. FAA PMA approved.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php
It's about 85 bucks a pint.
JP
Hi Tom - I redid the fuel system on my 4-1200 in Sept., 2011 and changed out all the barbed fittings in favor of beaded fittings at that time. Less damaging to hose and far less likely to have a little piece of cut hose crud end up in the circuit somewhere IMHO. Combined with your suggested band (vs. worm gear) hose clamps, should give one the best of both worlds. I remember they were a -very- tough find, so I dug up the source info to share if anyone is looking:
Item#PCO 168-05-04, (10) @ $0.999 EA = $9.99 (on the invoice it looks like S&H was inc'd)
Winco Fluid Power Inc.
PO Box 355
Jamison, PA 18929
Tel: 215-657-4940 (Glenna)
Fax: 215-657-7226
www.wincofp.com
-Aeropro CZ Aerotrek A240 Tri-Gear SLSA 912uls
-Airdale Avid+ on CZAW Amphibs 'FatAvid Floater' (building)
-Kitfox 4-1200 TD 912ul (sold)
-Kitfox Model III TD 582 (R.I.P.)
-Avid Flyer Mk-IV TD (sold)
Hi Doug. The fuel hose clamps are in the McMaster-Carr catalog. That is a great company to deal with. They have good products and delivery is very fast. Of course, here in Southern New Jersey, their outlet is not far from me. Incidentally, it has been a long time but as soon as I get my propeller, I'll be ready for main engine start of the 'Jabiru 2200'. Remember that one?-Tom.
Last edited by Lion8; 02-26-2013 at 08:48 PM.
Sorry Tom, guess I was less than clear. The barbed fittings were tough to find.
Re: the Jab start, you got the honors but I expect the video!
-Aeropro CZ Aerotrek A240 Tri-Gear SLSA 912uls
-Airdale Avid+ on CZAW Amphibs 'FatAvid Floater' (building)
-Kitfox 4-1200 TD 912ul (sold)
-Kitfox Model III TD 582 (R.I.P.)
-Avid Flyer Mk-IV TD (sold)