I know this has probably been beaten to death before on this forum, but in doing a little research today, I came upon the following from Loctite -
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/HYSA9460-EN.pdf
It specifies the mixing ratio for 9460 Hysol as 1:1 by either weight OR volume. I hope this will ease anyone's concern that they may not have gotten an optimal strength mix when using the volume method, as I have.
John Evens
Arvada, CO
Kitfox SS7 N27JE
EAA Lifetime
Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime
Thanks for the input on glueing. Now more questions. I have been ready to glue since this post started; however, the temperatures here have been fairly cool so I have been waiting for some warmer weather. The temps have been running between 45 and 55 degrees on average. My garage is not heated. Should I wait for warmer temps? If so what should I shoot for? My Hysol is very thick when I have done some practice work, how do you thin it or do you just use it this way?
Stan Inzer
912 ULS
Dynon Skyview 10"
N599KF
I found that the white part of Hysol had a tendency to granulate in cold weather. The granules did not go away with extended stirring or blending with the gray part. Heating the parts A and B with a heat gun thins the parts for easy mixing and it makes the granules dissolve and blend. Without the heat the granulated mix would still set but the surface felt like sand in the mix.
The heated mix cools rapidly in a cold shop so it didn't seem to affect working time. Setting time overnight appears to be the same. No flakes or grains were present after heating and the mix cured with a smooth finish.
JP
I found the same issue with the white part. I heated the white part only by putting the container in a hot water bath and it returned to a nice smooth consistency. I've done this a number of times and it appears to have no negative effect.
Dorsal ~~^~~
Series 7 - Tri-Gear
912 ULS Warp Drive
just put the white part in the micro for a few seconds, all crusty will go away and works fine.
It's in a metal can. My microwave won't like that.
put the white in the cup first, put in the micro, than put in the black.
Hi all. I received my kit on 4/6/13 and have been busy with the inventory, reaming, fitting ribs, and building part since I choose not to go with the QB option. I appreciate the wealth of knowledge collected here! I’m about to glue my ribs to the hort stab and elevator and have read I think all the posts concerning this on the forum. My question is after reading and looking at the pics I can find I’m wondering why the stiffeners are not glued to the weldment along with the rib forming a “T” joint; it seems the stiffeners in the pics do not reach the weldment. The "T" joint would seem like it would add a lot of strength stiffness to the rib. Is there a reason for not doing this? Thanks, Greg
Greg,
Not sure I know the reason for using the short "T" on the ribs.
I tried to run mine all the way to the weldment thinking it would add some additional stiffness.
I have seen lots of planes with the shorter "T" on the ribs and haven't heard anyone having problems when the planes were flying.