Dorsal makes an excellent point regarding the suction method. I used to pop the top and suck the rest by joggling around the bottom. Since I am about to begin my flying as well, I suspect I will be wiping the tank. I repositioned the tank to below the right side carburetor and it is a tight fit, so it remains to be seen just how much I will disassemble.
Lowell
Lowell, I will be interested in seeing how you did that. I did my first oil change this morning at 0530. I have the box built in the center top of the firewall where the oil tank recesses into (Model IV).This makes it necessary to loosen all the clamps to where the tank top can be tilted forward enough to remove the innards (I'm now envious of the SS guys with all the room up front ) Used the suction gizmo from NAPA and it worked just fine. Still took a bath in oil though...just another learning experience.
Dan
Dan B
Mesa, AZ
I have been taking the top off for ever. I just suck it out, I haven't made a mess, I put rags on top the engine for in case. I disconnect NO hoses. When I get to the bottom I remove the screen and set it into a drain pan on the floor, take out the bottom plate. Suck what's left, and then take some of those blue rags from costco and wipe out the tank. Than I put the plate back in and the screen. Fill with new oil to about 1.5 inches from top. put the top back on. remove the filter, prefill the new filter and screw it on, leave the clamp with safety wire intact and just loosen the clamp and take the filter away from that, push the clamp tight to the safety wire and tighten after the filter is installed.
I keep the mags off and crank over until I get pressure. push plane outside and start, than recheck fluid level. done, usually 30 min and I'm flying again.
changed my oil yesterday and it was going well utill I tried to short cut filling the oil tank by just pouring the oil in direct from the bottle( I usually use a thread on bendable nozzle )
The plastic container is very flimsy . When I tilted the bottle,oil shot out of the container and went all over the firewall and oil tank ! So, after 20 min of cleaning that mess up,I filled the tank properly.
Seems I too can't get away from making a mess of it sometimes.
Oh well.
At least the new oil filter fits. I was a little concerned as it is a little longer and there isn't much room with the exhaust so close.
Now to see if it helps to stop the oil backflow and reduced prop turns for "burping" !
Dick
Dick, I thought I was home free from having a huge mess as I got the oil in the can, but when I started to hand prop the engine I discovered I put too much oil in. Not unlike you mentioned...about 20 minutes of cleaning the oil off of everything. I also was a bit concerned with the new filter being longer. Rotax didn't do us any favors there.
Dan B
Mesa, AZ
Yep !...this oil changing can be a messy business !
Dick
Dan,
I cheated a bit by redesigning the engine mount. I put it on the right side - opposite the factory side - because of the cylinder configuration. The right bank is forward of the left bank and gives a bit more room for the tank. The two aluminum lines are for the carburetor vent line and the oil tank vent. Also the ignition module is mounted where the tank used to be. A good friend mounted his tank in approximately the same location as mine, but used a firewall mount set-up rather than mounting it to the engine mount. I had to flatten the tank a bit near the bottom so it would clear the cowl.
Lowell
Last edited by HighWing; 04-20-2012 at 07:48 AM. Reason: forgot image
Lowell that looks really sweet. I've been considering reworking the mount on my 1200 project to locate the tank like that and to allow the use of the Rotax intake plenum. (Maybe a turbo kit in my distant future. )
The only difference I think I may do is to use the "smooth" cowl. Id like to get more forward visibility.