Would like Info On IFA IVOPROP

[RandyL]

I know the regs state "138mph at sea level"

Look a little deeper, it says that the 138 mph is CAS (calibrated air speed). What is the TAS (true air speed) when doing 138 CAS at 9,999' msl? Depending on the temperature gradient it's generally around 165 mph TAS and perferctly legal for an LSA.

The above has nothing to do with a prop, sorry for the thread creep, but thought you all would appreciate that clarification.

[Slyfox]

sorry to come back in on this, but it's clear that placecarding does get you out of the hot seat with the FAA. Now what happens after the aircraft is certified,well it's all on what the owner of the aircraft puts in the log books and on the placecards. Ah what's that switch for, oh I don't know, why is it there, I don't know, must have forgotton to take it out. I guess it's used for nothing. That's if you let the FAA look at your airplane in the first plane, I don't think they can. Just saying, not that it's true mind you.

[War Eagle]

I am going to take a stab at answering the question about other IFA props.

I am part of a group in Nampa that built 14 Series 7 KFs. Three of them with 914s, one with an 0-200 and ten of them with the 912s.

Seven of those KFs we installed the Airmaster CS props, three of them with the wood GSC prop and three with the Warp drive prop a one with a french made prop. Sorry I can't remember the name of it at the moment. No IVOs in any of them.

When we were looking at the various CS props we looked at Airmaster, Hoffman, NSI and one other that I can't remember the name of right now. This was all done back in 2003.

Skystar at the time had a series 7 that had a 914 with a Hoffman CS prop. This required the Rotax 914 to be ordered with the crankshaft and govenor for a CS prop so it could be controlled by hydraulic pressure.

The other CS props we looked at were all electric controlled.

None of us wanted to spend the extra money for the engine changes that would allow the use of a hydraulic controlled CS prop.

The Airmaster turned out to be the least expensive option at the time and it had an excellent reputation. Some of the other electric CS options didn't have as stellar reputation when we started talking to end users.

We went with the Airmaster and we are all extremely happy with the prop and it's performance. While a CS isn't everyone cup of tea (so to speak) they really increase the performance of the plane in very drastic manner when compared to a fixed pitch equipped 912s or 914.

In a not to often spoken about situation, we have out performed some of the local IVO IFA equipped 912s with one of our Airmaster equipped 912s. Of course the IVO IFA is not a CS but there are those that think there is nothing better when they have flown behind their IVO.

I am not trying to put down anyones choice of prop but the IVO IFA can't match the performance of an Airmaster CS prop even though there are some that think it is possible.

Some of these Airmasters have been flying in the series 7s for 8 years now.

The price today is much higher than when we bought ours a few years back (thanks to the weak US dollar) but these were an excellent investment and have been everything that we every wanted in performance.

[Av8r3400]

Just be mindful of the weight limitations on the gearbox of a 912/914. Nickle inlaid, square tip Warp blades are very heavy.

A 3-blade, 72" diameter, square tip, nickle inlaid warp prop is too heavy and will void the warranty on a 912. Taper the tips (my prop) and it is JUST under the red-line on weight.

[kitfox2009]

Hi All
Over the past number of years I have been able to visit friends and family in New Zealand and have got to know a number of folks in the "microlight" community there. What a great country for flying too!
Everyone that can afford to has switched to the Airmaster for their 912S and 914 engines.
From their experiences these props are definitely the ultimate unit that is currently available but are very expensive! I believe my IVO 70" IFA was about $1200 last year. I can handle that!
Cheers
Don

[kmach]

the only advice I have is, just do it. Get the through hub wiring. converts from the brushes on the outside of the spacers and wires everything through the center of the prop, thus the brushes will end up behind the gear box. This set up has worked very well for me for about 5 years now. Believe me, the inflight is the way to go, opens up many possibilities. You will dazel anybody that watches you fly or fly with you, airplane on your wing.

Hi,
do you have any pictures of the behind the gearbox wiring setup ? How far does it protrude towards the firewall from the gearbox ? I have an oil cooler thermostat mounted in the area behind the gearbox.

Do you still use all the Ivo parts ?, like the slip rings and isolators that are required with there wiring setup. It seems that these could be omitted if a person was wiring thru the rotax hub.

I am considering the setup that Murle Williams sells.

Thanks; Kevin

[kmach]

Hi All,

I ordered the IFA conversion kit today . That's enough thinking about it !

Now the question is constant speed adapter or not

[Slyfox]

that's what I have. I put a little bracket and mounted my oil thermostat on top of the gear box, one of the two top bolts. Than the setup for through the gearbox mounts right directly behind the gear box, the shaft that goes to the prop is hollow, fits in there and has a long bolt and nut that goes through all that, than two wires end up out the front and than your prop goes on. You can eleminate the extra spacers and insulators, but than you will need new prop bolts. I was in to much of a hury so I just sandwitch everything but threw the insulators and just put it on, sticks out front a bit but that doesn't hurt the operation.

I in turn put all my 360 degree markings on my spacers and that gets used for when I balance my prop. A rebalance currently is real quick for me for I leave the tape on the prop blade and the degrees on the spacers make it real nice.

[Slyfox]

Hi All,

I ordered the IFA conversion kit today . That's enough thinking about it !

Now the question is constant speed adapter or not

na, waste of money for the constant speed.

If you just throw the kit on you will be pretty flat, on take off you just adjust to 5800 rpm. (If I am playing with my prop on the ground I go flat all the way and course it for about 1 second, pretty much puts it good for take off). After you get going you can leave it at that(5800) for max take off, or adjust to 5200, I find 5300 offers just a little smoother operation.

going into land I pull back on the throttle(zero climb) and put the tach on 4400 rpm and than run up the prop(hit the switch), flater, to 5200 rpm(about a count to 3). this puts it automaticaly perfect for the next take off. I've thought of putting in the washers, but I don't like to work any more than I have to, so I haven't done it. Besides if you put it real flat and you watch your rpm, you won't believe the straight up and out you can get with your fox. Yes, I have gotten in trouble with the local FSDO seems they think I'm doing aerobatics. shhhhh don't let them know that's a normal thing for a kitfox.

One more thing, I would mount your toggle switch right next to the throttle, mine is in a hole to the left of my throttle, very easy to hit it with my index finger.

did I mention I love my setup.

[kitfox2009]

Hi Kevin

The operation Slyfox describes is pretty much how I run mine. Just be careful you don`t "over-rev" when you are using the flatter pitch.
I have my switch just left of the throttle. Push LEFT for coarse. RIGHT for fine. Works easily with the index finger. I believe you will be pleasantly surprised just how sensitive this unit is. Small adjustments make a world of difference!
Have fun
Don