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Thread: Rotax 912 older oil reservoir

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    UT
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    35

    Default Re: Rotax 912 older oil reservoir

    Don't know if any of you have been to the Rotax Owners site but they have some really good videos on subjects like this. In fact, they have one specifically on changing oil based on the Rotax service bulletins.

    http://www.rotax-owner.com/

    Over on the right-hand side click on the link for the Videos.

    Another good bit of information is that purging is unnessesary unless you disconnect oil tubing on the suction side of the system. There is a Technical Article on the site that describes this much better than I can so if interested go ahead and read it.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Peteohms's Avatar
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    Leander, TX Hangared @ KGTU
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    Default Re: Rotax 912 older oil reservoir

    Steve^2 ( that's Steve Squared for 2 Steves),

    I got the oil change done per your suggestions and yes I do have separate mag switches.

    Darin,

    I was aware of those videos but the oil change instruction does not apply since I have no drain plug and couldn't get to it if I did have one. The purging does apply, but I figure not if you just keep the hoses attached to the lid and just siphon out the old oil with the lid off. It is a messy process.

    Thanks to all who commented.
    Pete
    Leander, TX
    Model III SN 1000
    912
    Grove

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    35

    Default Re: Rotax 912 older oil reservoir

    Pete,

    Missed the part about not having the plug in the bottom...that definitely makes for a different set of circumstances. I have a quick drain plug in the bottom of my tank and when the engine oil is warm it drains out very nicely.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Slyfox's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
    Location
    felts field, spokane
    Posts
    1,327

    Default Re: Rotax 912 older oil reservoir

    No advantage, I measured the oil used when I pulled the lines versus sucking it out and leaving the oil in. It was only a couple table spoons of oil. So no you are just wearing yourself out. Not only that, you will have to blead the system, depending on how you do it. If you remove the oil return and do the prop turn over, I guess you can stop when the new out comes out. Here you also have a problem with a line being removed and having to make sure it is installed right so it doesn't pop off or leak in flight.

    On my older 912ul engine, I also found that burping the system and than going right into oil change out, seems to get more oil out of the engine and return line. If I just run the engine and then changed the oil, the oil level was a little lower on the stick. I believe the last time I did it, I ended up burping the oil system after warm up.

    One interesting thing on this, did you know you can burp the system by putting on the compression differential tester and doing a compression test, the last time I did it I heard the system burp, and was told this was normal. Expecially if you rocked the cylender and cause the rings to unseat. Maybe that was because my engine was getting weak, don't know.

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