Kitfox Aircraft Stick and Rudder Stein Air Grove Aircraft TCW Technologies Dynon Avionics AeroLED MGL Avionics Leading Edge Airfoils Desser EarthX Batteries Garmin G3X Touch
Page 24 of 25 FirstFirst ... 14202122232425 LastLast
Results 231 to 240 of 246

Thread: Building tips and hints

  1. #231

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    75

    Default Matching Paint

    When I was ordering the extended elevator for my Kitfox, Heather sent to to Cardinal Paints website to figure out which color my original kit was. While I was visiting the website I noticed they have color matched paint for touch up. Ordering was easy, and the color is a perfect match.

    https://shop.cardinalpaint.com/colle...cardinal-stock
    Mike
    Building the JaMFox N677JM
    Kitfox 5 Vixen
    KRNM

  2. #232

    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Huntsville, Alabama
    Posts
    16

    Default How much Superfil and Hysol will I need?

    Building a 7A (Precursor to the SS) and need to order up a supply of Hysol and Superfil. How much (ml's, quarts, gallons?) did you all use in your builds? I don't really want a bunch of this stuff left over, but also don't want to scrimp.

  3. #233
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Steilacoom, WA
    Posts
    729

    Default Re: How much Superfil and Hysol will I need?

    Assuming you can get past the hump where you mix up 2-3 times as much as you need for the job, the quart (?) size kit sold by Kitfox would be almost exactly the right amount. I finally got to where I could mix up almost exactly what i need, but because it took me a while to learn that skill I have supplemented with the dual mixing tubes used in the squeeze gun. Which is very handy at times and turns out to be a lot less wasteful than I thought.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  4. #234

    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Huntsville, Alabama
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: How much Superfil and Hysol will I need?

    Were you able to find a dispenser/system that allowed you to use the bulk Parts A & B with the mixing gun? Essentially, fill your own tubes and let the mixing dispense take care of getting the 50/50 mix right? I'd like to use the dispensing gun as much as possible, even with the 2 quart-sized cans of the parts A & B.

  5. #235
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Steilacoom, WA
    Posts
    729

    Default Re: How much Superfil and Hysol will I need?

    I never got that far. I know Bryan Bowen figured out the correct empty tubes and mixing tips to go with the dispensing gun, and I'm sure others have too.

    Me, I just got the big "horse syringes" and would mix up the batch and load up the syringe. It works really well when you're putting on a thick bead like fillets at the rib/spar joints. The syringes are reusable without much work. The cured adhesive pops right out if the last thing you do is stick the tongue depressor into the nearly empty tube and let it cure. Just clean the rubber part of the plunger before it cures and you can get at least 3-4 uses out of a syringe.
    Kitfox 5 (under construction)
    Commercial SE/ME, CFII

  6. #236
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,959

    Default Baggage Sack Floor-SS7

    The questions about whether to mount the floor under the baggage sack or inside (as Kitfox recommends) keep coming up on a regular basis. Here is my take on it:

    I definitely recommend doing as Kitfox says and mount the floor board inside the baggage sack; then when the floor is screwed down to the mounting tabs you can firmly pull up the sides and Velcro them to the upper tubes and have nice looking fairly rigid sides to your baggage compartment. Doing it the other way will give you saggy-baggy, wrinkled sides that look very poor.

    Another thing to note is that you almost NEVER need to unscrew and remove the baggage floor IF you install a round inspection cover in the belly fabric right under the elevator pushrod swing arm. For annuals there is nothing else to inspect under the floor. The swing arm can be easily inspected and lubed thru the belly inspection cover, as well as rudder cables and pitot static tubing. By just pulling off the Velcro at the top edges of the baggage sack the sides, front and back can be folded down (without disturbing the floor) to gain access to flaperon pushrods, ELTs, ADHRS, etc.

    If you do ever want to remove the baggage sack floor, it is really not that hard to do. Access to the two front hold-down screws is quite easy with the seat removed. The two rear screws are more difficult, but not bad with some patience. Some folks have put nutplates on these two rear tabs to make it easier-sounds like a good idea to me.

    All these comments apply whether or not you have an extended baggage compartment.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  7. #237
    Senior Member PapuaPilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Nampa, Idaho
    Posts
    1,225

    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    I totally agree with Jim. I like a nice tight baggage sack. I didn't put an inspection hole in the belly there, but I just pull some of the top Velcro strips loose on the baggage sack to inspect and lube things in that zone. If you need to access the tail you can just undo all the Velcro and collapse the baggage sack on top of the floor board.
    Phil Nelson
    A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
    KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
    Flying since 2016

  8. #238
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    St Paul, MN
    Posts
    1,833

    Default Cheap gearbox puller

    Official Rotax tools are prohibitively expensive for some of us. Picked a scrap piece of 1/4" steel plate and angle iron from the shop, sliced a rectangular hole with the torch and a few holes to drill and I had a bracket that could be attached to my inexpensive slide hammer. For extra points, the angle iron also makes a handy stand to hold the gearbox once off the engine.

    For some reason the photos are sideways, but you get the idea.

    Rotax lists the price for their puller @ $523
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Dave S; 10-03-2022 at 04:22 PM.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

  9. #239
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Toledo, WA
    Posts
    863

    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    I see how it's a stand for the gearbox, but I don't understand the slide hammer part of it. It's probably obvious to everyone else...
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  10. #240
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    St Paul, MN
    Posts
    1,833

    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Eric,

    sorry - norwegian trick on my part - there is a hole in the angle iron on the side the thing is sitting on - 1/2" hole to match the threaded end of the slide hammer - probably didn't help that I neglected to show the slide hammer hooked up.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •