Building tips and hints

[jtpitkin06]

Swaging Rudder Cables - Model 7 and maybe some others.

Correction:
The Kitfox [kit] does not use[a] turnbuckle [in the standard package of parts for the Model 7SS with adjustable rudder pedals option] for matching rudder cable lengths [because, in this builder’s opinion, it would only be used once, never being adjusted again during the life of the cables, add unnecessary weight and expense of two turnbuckles, four thimbles, four sleeves; and, add potential failure points.]



So, if you might have difficulty swaging the cables at the proper length read my previous post [at your discretion] prior to swaging the cable ends. It may, or may not, be helpful.


If you do decide to add a turnbuckle on the Model 7SS [with adjustable rudder pedal option], note that you will [likely] only require one turnbuckle per side. The springs on the adjustable pedals [are supposed to, i think] hold the cable tension.



A single turnbuckle on each side, pilot and passenger, may be used to match all four pedal positions to the others [You may use more turnbuckles if you wish if you like the look but they are not needed]. At least one turnbuckle must be located forward of the “Y” in either cable in order to be able to match both sets of pedals unless you don't care about the person, or animal in the other seat.



Please note that all tips posted here, by me, are for your amusement and reading pleasure only and in no way should be considered as instructions of how to build an airplane, car or boat. The use of any of my building tips for anything other than a doghouse without signed authorization is not permitted and may result in injury, illness and/or death.


I hope this clears up my previous posting.


Thank you,
John Pitkin
Greenville, TX

[DanB]

I suppose when reading these tips one should take into consideration which model ( if applicable) is being referred to. In this case, the building world I float around in is the IV and John the SS. It sounds to be big differences in the way the cables are run between the two. For me, The turnbuckels were (in my opinion) a good addition to the IV. I also have the tabs with different holes for position attached to the peddals, but liked the added adjustment to include the buckels. They were added aft just before rudder attachment and have already proven to be an asset in adjustment of the peddals and or tension. I believe the V thru SS all have the pedal adjustment (didn't think of that). Guess I should withhold correction statements for at least 0600 hrs and not 0400

[jtpitkin06]

Swaging Rudder Cables - Model 7 and maybe others.

Yep, the cable routing is different on 7's with the optional adjustable rudder pedals.So is the tensioning method. But one thing is constant. Swaging those cable ends is a lot easier if you clamp and mark the cables first.

I really like Dan's tip that got buried in his reply. Put multiple holes in the cable end links. You might consider making the links longer to accommodate 2 more holes. It's a lot cheaper to make new links than to purchase new cables if you already swaged the ends and things aren't perfect.

John Pitkin
Greenville, TX

[Dorsal]

For doing the cables I used two of the temporary cables clamps shown per side. This was after painting and all else was done and allowed me to check rudder alignment, full travel clearance and the adjustable peddle range. As a result of doing this I turned my break cylinders 90 deg to get more leg room and was confident of the setup once I got to swaging. When I had the setup I liked I marked the cables with a sharpie (as John did) which has the added benefit of providing an easy visual inspection for pre-flight (I covered the free tails with clear heat shrink).

[HighWing]

I would like to comment on Dan's post. It is a fact that we builders have a world of help in mind when we repond to posts or make suggestions. On another forum as I type this is a note responding to a charging issue with a Rotax 912 UL with a lengthy post on alternator issues - copy/pasted- "Another thing that can generally go wrong with the alternator is the field coil can burn open". Sorry, but as this Rotax doesn'st have the optional alternator - no field coil, so what's the point. These posts are not helpful and don't necessarily refect well on the poster. I have also read posts which clearly stated aircraft model and engine type and responses not applicable to either and then follow up questions asking exactly what this or that are you having problems with. I would like to kindly suggest that when responding, we read carefully the questioning note and reply when our experience or expertise is applicable or at least type a short disclaimer indicating that the first post has been read, i.e., Never seen a Kitfox, but my MaxoStrato does this when I do that. Also, and this may sound a bit whiney, but the fact I am building a Model IV and like Dan am soundly in the IV world should in no way diminish my feeling of welcome on the forum. But when many build questions seem to be answered (without thought) from the Super Sport manual, as if the very latest info. is surely the best info., the forum does tend to sound a bit exclusive to me or maybe, more accurately, a tad dismissive.

Submitted Respectfully,
Lowell
Model IV-1200 Rotax 912UL 900 hours over nine years, Lancair IV 2-1/2 years build experience full time - to completion, Kitfox V Outback six months - to completion, Model IV-1200 Rotax 912UL 3 years almost almost finished

[jtpitkin06]

Making bushings – All Models


My seat belts get attached to the airframe with AN4 bolts through 1/4 inch holes. However, the belts come with 3/8 inch holes. I needed reducer bushings not included in the kit hardware package.What to do?


I had some left over scraps of 3/8 inch aluminum tubing. Using a pipe cutter I sliced off a short length of tubing and sanded the cut ends. Voila! A perfect bushing seen here inserted into the seat belt end.

Cost = zero


John Pitkin
Greenville, TX

[jtpitkin06]

Epoxy Thickener –all models


Sometimes you find a combination by accident. This was one of those times.
I was needing some epoxy thickener to use as a filler. I was out of flox and micro-balloons so I looked around the shop for something that might work. I’ve used sawdust in the past but the mixing is not consistent. Sawdust is not uniform in size.
So, on a whim, I mixed up a test sample of epoxy and added shredded toilet paper. I was surprised to see the paper dissolve almost immediately into tiny fibers. The tissue fibers soaked up the resin and wetted out like chopped fiberglass.
When the test sample hardened, it was extremely strong and very hard.
Using toilet paper for epoxy thickener turned out to be a royal flush!


John Pitkin

[jiott]

Epoxy Syringe-all models

I have found that I can use the plastic syringe that Kitfox sells over and over again-have been using one now for 20 or more times. I just leave a little in the bottom (not too much) and let it set up. Then I use a flattened off nail that just fits inside the spout and smack it with a hammer from the outside. The setup epoxy breaks loose in the spout and also the small plug left in the bottom and can easily be pulled out. A small penknife easily breaks loose whats left on the plunger and whats left inside the barrel is also easily scraped out. It only takes a few minutes and allows me to use the syringe for most of the glue application-way easier than trying to spread it on with a popsicle stick or an acid brush.

Jim

[HighWing]

While wiring my first Model IV, I read a suggestion to label the wires using white heat shrink and fine line colored magic markers to encode the wire numerically with the electronics guys resister codes. I liked the idea and it looked good until I found that over time the colors would fade and tracing wires was a little more difficult. It also required a code sheet for identifying what coded number meant what circuit. This time I am using typed strips under clear heat shrink with a white heatshrink strain relief underneath. Maybe not as pretty, but bulletproof and quick when tracing circuits. One side benefit is that it requires a bit of attention to detail which helps eliminate wiring errors. So far so good in that arena.

[Av8r3400]

Lowell, plus one on that idea. Absolutely awesome!!

(I think they look great, too.)